Is there a new king of King Street?
Henry’s Taiwan, at the base of the Chinatown gate, has been a fan favorite for a few years, serving some Taiwanese standards at reasonable prices.
Now Henry Ku has opened Henry’s Taiwan Plus a few doors down at 522 South King Street, site of the short-lived Noodle King and Penang Food Court. A few small plates and dim sum items (like the delicious beef bing) are carryovers from the older location, but here are new dishes in a new setting—including a few upscale plates, like miso-glazed black cod and honey mustard lamb chops. The dining room is a little larger than at the first Henry’s, with some Chinese antiques adding fine finishing touches.
I tried the “Plain Noodle Soup,” which is easy to overlook. The Chinese characters tell a different story, translating to sun spring noodle soup, something most Taiwanese people will recognize. The soup is simple and elegant, perfect for fighting a cold or for a quest for comfort. The broth is made with bonito shavings, with flavor balanced by sugar and salt. What you’ll see in addition to the ribbon-like egg noodles are bean sprouts and Chinese chives, but there’s also a little white pepper and shallot oil. At $4.95, it’s the kind of hidden gem you’re likely to find when you invest some time and money at any of Henry’s locations.
