Taste of Chicago, Reviewed by Chicagoans

Last night, the members of the South Warsaw Street Social Club assembled at an eatery called Taste of Chicago, at 52nd Avenue and University Way NE. The majority of the club's members were from Chicago, and boasted names that ended in "-ski." Their plans to visit Taste of Chicago, announced on Facebook, had triggered a flurry of responses from other Chicago transplants along the lines of "I've got my coat on! Where is it?"

"Realistic, from the good food to the lame decor," was the verdict. The club sampled a gyro ($5.75), an Italian combo ($8.50, combining the gustatory pleasures of the Italian beef sandwich and Italian sausage sandwich), and cheese fries (cheese $0.50, everything comes with fries), and--between discussions of Wisconsin ski resorts and the cost of heating oil--plans were made for a return visit. The menu's low-end entrée seems to be bratwurst ($3.50) and it tops out at $8.50 items. Onion rings are $2.50.

Taste of Chicago has a new co-proprietor who arrived in town in October. "How do you like Seattle?" a table asked him. He shrugged. "I don't see anything but the restaurant. I wake up, I come here, I go home."

Here is a squat shoebox space with one of those hanging-tile ceilings you suspect has asbestos on the reverse, a linoleum floor, and a counter at the far end from the door. Chicago memorabilia--a painting of the skyline, a photo of the American Giants--hangs from the walls. Above the cashier is a genuine plastic diner's order board; a plastic menu is also taped to the counter. On one table sits a chess set, with foot-tall wooden pieces. On another, a Connect 4 game.

The gyro was judged adequate, but not worth a special trip. The Italian combo, served "wet" (sopped with au jus), was more like home. The Italian beef was a familiar brand. The sausage, while delicious, was not "what you'd usually get." You can get a variety of pepper toppings on the sandwich. From the menu, the careful observer can declare that Chicagoans like meat (sliced), meat (sausage), cheese, relish, onions, peppers.

A sign promises "Vegetarian Items," but if they exist (outside of onion rings and fries), you must have to ask.