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posted 12/12/10 01:37 PM | updated 12/12/10 03:58 PM
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Brighton Beach, Brooklyn: A Photo Essay

By Jeremy M. Barker
Arts Editor-at-Large
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Looking west down Brighton Beach Ave., near the intersection with Coney Island Ave.

As some astute readers may know, I don't actually live in Seattle anymore. As of April last, I moved to New York City, and have been living in far South Brooklyn between Brighton Beach and Sheepshead Bay (it's a long story). While the area has sizeable Jewish, Pakistani, and even Mexican communities, it's primarily known as a Russian immigrant neighborhood (colloquially known as "Little Odessa," though the local business community prefers "Little Russia by the Sea"). (Note: It was pointed out in the comments--and I thought I had written it this way, but re-reading I realize I did not--that the neighborhood is much more complicated than simply being "Russian." In fact, the original Russofication wasn't Russian at all: it was Ukrainian Jews. Today, it's linguistically Russian, but ethnically comprised of people from all over the former USSR, from Belarus to Uzbekistan, who come here for the linguistic access and relative affordability. If I can find proper demographic data, I'll add it--see the comments section for the discussion.)

The Russian Santa Claus Ded Moroz (Father Frost), with his granddaughter Snegurochka, in a store display.

Yesterday I woke up late after covering two shows the night before, the latter of which ended at midnight, leaving me an hour-long train ride on the Q (I call it "train" rather than "subway" because a good portion of the line isn't underground; between Brighton Beach and Coney Island, it's actually an el), and wandered down to the local Starbucks for a coffee. It's been extremely cold in New York, hovering in the mid-thirties all day, so people have been thoroughly donning their cold weather clothes, which, in Brighton, means fur: more fur than you usually see in the US. Noticing this, I decided to photograph a long, chilly wander I took through my 'hood that was originally in search of the perfect shot of a babushka in furs (pace von Sacher-Masoch). And I apologize to all the photography purists out there who sneer at Hipstamatic--it's better than my basic iPhone cam.

An elderly woman selling shawls on Brighton Beach Ave. near Brighton 4th St.

Shopping for chocolates.

Resting.

Real mink stoles being sold on the sidewalk.

A tree in the parking lot next to the Brighton Beach Boardwalk, near Brighton 3rd St.

Looking north up Brighton 4th St.

Women chatting. The apartment buildings between Brighton Beach Ave. and the boardwalk are largely inhabited by older people--mainly women--whose children are more integrated and live elsewhere in the city. Many of them do not speak English, which is a distant second language in Brighton Beach.

Cakes in the Mexican bodega/bakery/lunch counter I frequent.

Juan, the cook at the lunch counter.

The ocean off the Brighton Beach boardwalk. This photo was actually taken in October, but I felt I should add it as I didn't take one yesterday.

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Tags: brighton beacH, brooklyn, new york, jewish, russian, babushka, ded moroz, russian santa clause, snegurochka, photos, q train
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Brighton
Jeremy, Hi, I know for the most Americans there is no difference between Russians, Ukrainians and most Slovenian people but actually Brighton is one of the biggest Ukrainian communities or Russian-speaking communities but NOT Russian..))
Comment by Elizabeth
1 day ago
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RE: Brighton
I'm not entirely clear on the demographics, as I can't find any good resources on it (the Census website is down right now, too) (and considering there's a fair bit of illegal immigration here, that's not surprising). I see your point but I think it's trickier than that: the original Russofication of the area occurred because of the immigration of Odessan (hence the name) Jews in the 1960s and '70s (or expulsion, depending on how you look at it). So in that regard, it wouldn't surprise me to discover that a large number of the residents still were born in what's today Ukraine. But given they're largely Jewish, rather than ethnically Ukrainian, I'm not sure it's entirely accurate to say it's a "Ukrainian" neighborhood; Odessa is a Russian speaking area with a very large ethnically Russian population, and its population growth was fueled by it being declared a free port city in the 19th century, which led to Jewish immigration to it from all over the Russian empire.

The main language here is Russian, not Ukrainian in my experience. But beyond even that, we're also talking about the initial wave of immigration starting 30 to 40 years ago. The neighborhood continues to attract immigrants--it's a way station as they enter the country because it's so densely linguistically Russian. It's very common to meet not only Russians (and Ukrainians) but Belarussians, Uzbeks, Kazakhs, Tajiks...basically, anyone from the former USSR, because they all speak Russian and they can get along here in ways they can't elsewhere.

So I see your point, but it's tricky because it encounters ethnic, religious, and historical issues. Or put another way: the old women I took photos of mainly, I wouldn't be at all surprised to discover they're mainly from what's today Ukraine. But in the restaurants, stores, and whatnot, it's a much more complicated picture.
Comment by Jeremy M. Barker
1 day ago
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RE: Brighton
But if you have anything on it, I'd love to see some hard stats.
Comment by Jeremy M. Barker
1 day ago
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RE: Brighton
This is the best I can find right now--not only does this article do a good job laying out part of the "who" (Soviet Jews), it also does include 2000 Census maps that appear to differentiate between Russian and Ukrainian birth. While Ukrainian does appear somewhat denser (but I'm not sure it's overwhelmingly so), it's also been ten years and considering the way age plays into, it could be very different now. I don't know. It's a good point, and I did notice re-reading my post that for some reason, I deleted what I'd originally written regarding Russian-speaking people from the former USSR. Bad editing on my part; I've added a note encouraging people to see this discussion. Here's the link:

http://macaulay.cuny.edu/seminars/krase08/index.php/The_Sovi
Comment by Jeremy M. Barker
1 day ago
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Brighton
"It's very common to meet not only Russians (and Ukrainians) but Belorussians, Uzbek, Kazakhs, Tajikistan..."

See, Jeremy, now u describe the 'hood, It's not only Russians, it's Russian-speakers and u know my attitude to it that for me it a big deal..Because Brighton it's just garbage and Americans who come here they think that it's Russians and how we live in Russia and it's not..
Hope one day Americans will speak about Brighton as a Russian-speaking neighborhood, nor Russian area..
Comment by Elizabeth
1 day ago
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