Jay Friedman

It's been quite a year for Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi, the chef duo from Joule, which just celebrated its third anniversary. 2010 started with the couple's appearance on Iron Chef America. In the summer, they had a baby. And now, as the year comes to a close, they have another baby: Revel.

Revel, in Fremont, opens today. Most striking when you enter is the open kitchen and its 24-foot maple cooking station. Whereas at Joule you had to crane your neck while sitting at the counter to check out the cooking action, a counter seat at Revel feels like being right in the kitchen.

And if last night's sneak peek is any indication, you can expect the food at Revel to be just as fabulous as what Yang and Chirchi have been serving up at Joule--which is one of Seattle's top three "Most Delicious" restaurants in the recently released Fearless Critic Seattle Restaurant Guide.

---

The menu: Asian street food with a non-traditional twist. Look for small sections of Asian pancakes (I enjoyed the one with pork belly, kimchi and bean sprouts), dumplings (the short rib dumpling with shallot and scallion has fantastic flavor, though I wish it had just a slightly chewier wrapper), and rice and noodle dishes.

---

My favorite dish at the preview featured homemade noodles with five-spiced duck balls, lacinato kale, and smoked chili. And I always love Yang and Chirchi's salads; an offering with spinach, sunchokes and miso vinaigrette offered a refreshing counterbalance to the grilled and pan-fried foods.

Revel will be open for dinner daily, and for lunch Mondays through Fridays. Brunch service will commence January 8, at which time I look forward to trying the Korean hangover soup with black pudding and Swiss chard.

With seating for 45 and then 20 more at Quoin, the adjacent bar where you can sip some infused soju, chances are that tables may be tough to get at times. (The good news: Revel and Quoin will have 20 and 15 seats, respectively, when the weather warms and the outdoor deck opens.) Pointing out the hip art and architecture, Yang told me they anticipate a younger crowd than they draw at Joule. That, combined with all the hard surfaces, translates to a noisy dining room. Hopefully, if Revel lives up to its potential, diners with have mouths full of food and not fill the space with too much noise.

Food and wine pairing is a fabulous thing, but perhaps even better: a culinary experience combined with a world-class inn stay.

I sang the praises of the Inn at Langley and Cave B Inn in the past. How many superlatives can I sling about Sooke Harbour House, my third and final stop in my Escape from Seattle to Vancouver Island?

This is a true destination location, just 25 west of Victoria, on the southern tip of the island. I’d heard about Sooke Harbour House from an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations,” and seeing his extravagant meal, made a mental note that I simply had to visit sometime. After all, Gourmet magazine bestowed it with the honor of Best Restaurant in the World for Authentic, Local Cuisine.

---

It’s an odd-looking place upon arrival, conjuring up images of tacky little tourist shops I’ve seen in southern New Hampshire. But that’s because you’re seeing it from the back side.

---

Once inside your room (there are 28 total), you may never want to leave. Mine had the features you’ll find in most (configurations vary). In the center of the entire space, overlooking a wood-burning fireplace and adjoining sitting area, a deep whirlpool bathtub also had a view to the outside. For more water fun, the bathroom had a misting shower for two. A little upstairs bedroom made my room more like a suite, but I never ventured up there, as the main bed (see photo) was beautiful.  Oh, and might I mention a basket of fresh-baked cookies, along with some port?

Walk out to the balcony (some rooms have terraces), and there’s an incredible view of Whiffen Spit, the natural breakwater between the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Sooke Harbour. It’s nice to lounge here if the weather’s nice, but it’s also worth getting out of your room.

There are some interesting things to do nearby. My partner and I took a light lunch at Point-No-Point Resort, where the dining room offers a breathtaking view. (If you’re looking for an alternative place to stay, the rustic cabins make for a great getaway.)

We made a stop at the Tugwell Creek Honey Farm and Meadery, where you can sample a variety of very good meads—and learn about the process of making them. And there’s hiking at nearby Sooke Potholes Regional Park and East Sooke Regional Park. But as we wanted to maximize our time at Sooke Harbour House, we limited our hiking to a wonderful little stroll along Whiffen Spit, where the inn is pretty much always in sight.

I contributed photos for the article my colleague Angela Allen authored about Sooke Harbour House in the current issue of Northwest Palate. Pulling from her introduction and closing, Allen wrote, “Art is a way of life at Sooke Harbour House…from the art that decorates the place, to the culinary art on the plate, Sooke Harbour House is an art lover’s paradise.”

The emphasis is local. Go ahead and explore! Check out the First Nations totem pole in front of the water. Make a point to walk through all the halls, where you’ll see the work of local artists throughout the building. There’s even local music to enjoy in your room.

You can learn more about the art and the area in the cozy library.

So much of the food is local, too. Owners Sinclair and Frederique Philip strive to source from local seas and farms (Sinclair himself has quite the foraging spirit, as he regaled me with tales of mushroom hunting), and much of the kitchen’s inspiration comes from the on-site organic garden. The two buildings are surrounded by 350 edible flowers, herbs, greens, and unusual vegetables. Be sure to take a tour, as everything grown on the grounds is edible—you’ll get to see, sniff, and sample so many things you might later see on your plate. (There’s also a seaweed tour in season.) I even got a peek inside the kitchen, and was treated to some candied morels. Mmm…candied morels!

Eventually, it was time to take a table in the 55-seat, quaint and comfortable (and, yes, artistic) dining room. With an emphasis on local products and seasonality, it’s not surprising that the menu changes daily, with dishes that appeal to all the senses.

With a wine cellar boasting over 15,000 bottles of wine, (featuring over 2,755 choices, including the world’s largest collection of Canadian ice wines), expect first-class wine pairings. But note that while Sooke Harbour House has earned well-deserved recognition with a Wine Spectator Grand Award, you can tap into the garden goodness by ordering herbal-infused non-alcoholic cocktails, too—reminding me of my experience at The Herbfarm.

The food is simply fabulous. Fresh, vibrant, and artistic are words that jump to mind. And, as I appreciate at a restaurant, educational. It was my first time to try barnacles! The photos tell the story of the meal:

A welcoming herbal beverage

Dungeness crab bisque garnished with a blue cheese crème fraiche and roast garlic crostini topped with garden chives

Grilled Qualicum Beach scallops with roasted peppers, Sooke Farms radish, grilled green onion, Otter Point gooseneck barnacles and cucumber horseradish vinaigrette (I believe there's also tuna paste in this preparation)

Cowichan Bay duck leg presented on thyme-roasted chanterelles, braised zucchini and Blue Russian potato frites with a raclette cream and rosemary blackberry syrup

Miso and basil-glazed sockeye salmon served with herbed spaetzle, green beans wrapped with eggplant and Sea Bluff Farm kohlrabi, drizzled with a Dungeness crab, cucumber and borage sauce

Cowichan Bay chicken breast stuffed with leeks and ham and served with Black Turtle-Cranberry beans, sautéed kale and chanterelle mushrooms in a sweet and sour chicken stock reduction with mint and cilantro oil

Blackberry mousse on a Marble Grey scented sponge cake, with black currant jelly and served with a red currant fruit sage sorbet (this followed a selection of cheeses from Moonstruck on Salt Spring Island and Hilarys in Cowichan Bay, and preceded a final plate of sweets)

It’s not just humans who come to Sooke Harbour House to be nurtured. Like us, you might see deer searching for food, as well as enjoy front-row seats for otters frolicking in the fountain just outside the dining room.

You’ll appreciate staying at the inn after a wonderful meal—and with knowledge that breakfast, full of more edible flowers, will be delivered to your room to help wake you up the next morning. Indeed, Sooke Harbour House is the perfect place for rest, relaxation, and a really memorable culinary experience.

Chef Kerry Sear and his team at ART Restaurant and Lounge are known for their creative flourishes. The Picasso exhibit at the Seattle Art Museum has only given them more reason to play with their plates. I was in recently and enjoyed seeing "A Woman's Face," their cubist dessert with Spanish and fall flavors.

ART is located in the Four Seasons Hotel, conveniently located diagonally across from SAM, making it a perfect place to enjoy the Artist's Palate TV Tray for lunch or the ARTist's Kitchen prix-fixe dinner menu (featuring some of Picasso's most beloved dishes) when you're ready for a museum break. ART will celebrate Picasso with these food specialties through January 17.

There are also two more opportunities (including this Sunday) to partake in Brunch with Seattle Art Museum. $65 gets you a brunch buffet, a presentation in which you'll get first-hand knowledge about the Picasso exhibit from the Seattle Art Museum's co-curators, and then VIP admission to the exhibit.

---

---

And through December 24, you can also enjoy A Chocolate Holiday at ART. This buffet runs from 2 to 7 p.m. (at a cost of $25 for adults and $15 for children 15 and under), and is a serious celebration for serious chocolate lovers.

Items change daily, but look for such treats as chocolate mousse cake, double chocolate cheesecake, mini chocolate cupcakes, Godiva liquor "pops," and chocolate tiramisu. Oh, and the most gorgeous, cocoa-dusted cotton candy.

Recall that in my previous “Escape” report about Victoria, I mentioned how a bottle of balsamic vinegar tempted me to return to Vancouver Island for some culinary adventures. Sadly, I was fighting a cold during this trip to the island, so I continued my journey, I had to consolidate my efforts. This meant skipping a day trip to explore the Saanich Peninsula (where you can visit a winery, cidery, distillery, and farms in an easy afternoon) to conserve my energy, enabling me to make an overnight trip to the Cowichan Valley.

The historical waterfront community of Cowichan Bay was named the first Cittaslow community in North America. No Walmarts here, thank you. Just an emphasis on local growers and artisans.

---

Heading north from Victoria, my first stop was Merridale Estate Cidery, which features the largest rack and cloth press in Canada. I took a little tour of the grounds, then returned to the tasting room where I was eager to sip some cider. With more time, I’m told Merridale is a perfect place for lunch—perhaps in a picnic-like setting outside.

After a brief stop at Damali Lavender Farm and B&B, where I perused a cookbook of recipes featuring lavender, my drive took me to the water, meaning arrival at Cowichan Bay.

There’s easy strolling along Cowichan Bay Road, and my itinerary included stops at True Grain Bread & Mill (an old-world bakehouse producing organic breads) and Hilary’s Cheese and Deli (carrying a variety of local and not-so-local cheeses) for the makings of a light lunch.

---

But my favorite food find was Udder Guy’s Ice Cream, which was named “Best Ice Cream on the West Coast” by the Lonely Planet Guide for Canada. The place was packed, and I was pleased to know that as the children (and children-at-heart, like me) ate their handcrafted ice cream, they were enjoying fresh, often local ingredients. Dare I say this ice cream was udderly delicious?

As the afternoon came to a close, I had time for one last stop. While there are many wineries in the region, I needed to visit Venturi Schulze Vineyards, producers of the balsamic vinegar I so covet. All of the wines are grown, produced, and bottled on the premises without use of any pesticides or herbicides. While the tasting room is modest, the product speaks volumes. I loved the wines, but found myself really licking the balsamic—pure and delicious.

Most surprising to me was the verjus—pure, unfermented grape juice that is pressed from unripe or semi-ripe fruit. From the Venturi Schulze website, verjus has been “used since the Middle Ages as an alternative to lemon or lime [and] is enjoying renewed popularity as a versatile, vibrant condiment.” While it can be used in salad dressings, sauces, and more, I enjoyed a sampling of terrific sorbet made with this magical liquid.

It’s possible to stop and snack endlessly in this area, but I was saving room for a much-anticipated dinner at Amuse Bistro. Fitting for the area, Chef Bradford Boisvert is part of the slow food movement, with his cooking-from-scratch philosophy reflected in the quality of the food. My partner and I were dressed for dinner in the elegant dining room, but when we were offered seeking in the upgrade gazebo (pictured above) behind the main building, we jumped on the opportunity.

It’s a delightful space, and one we shared at first with a fabulous foursome from the area who shared notes on their favorite dishes. After they left, we had the place to ourselves. A very romantic setting, albeit a bit dark for photos, so apologies to the chef for not doing justice to his food.

Amuse bouche: Eggplant clafouti with basil pesto

Cowichan Bay crab bisque with parsley cream (rich crab flavor)

Tofino-foraged chanterelles in a brandy cream sauce (earthy and hearty)

Pan-seared Little Qualicum scallops with corn & chanterelle ragout, zucchini clafouti, and cilantro-mint coulis (wonderful flavors, though offering a realization that my partner and I both like simpler preparations of scallops that unobstructedly showcase their sweetness)

Peppercorn-encrusted, pan-seared island bison tenderloin with gratin dauphinois, swiss chard, patty pan squash, and brandy cream sauce (loved this—and loved the return to simple pan-searing as compared to sous vide preparation)

Dessert: A sweet, gorgeous ending to the meal

My overnight stay was at Dragonfly Dock Bed & Breakfast, located right on the shores of Shawnigan Lake. Della and Kevin Lawrence were welcoming hosts, providing just the right balance of privacy and engagement. The bedrooms are comfortable, and there’s a "mi casa es tu casa" feeling. Behind the home is easy access to a walking trail, while in front is a hot tub offering serenity under the stars. And across the street is the dock, a perfect place for water activities on the heavily utilized lake.

You won’t go hungry at Dragonfly, as breakfast is bountiful and delicious. During my stay, I enjoyed baked brie, fresh fruit, scones, and crepes. While the common table might be uncomfortable at some B&Bs, I got the feeling that the conversation is always stimulating at Dragonfly. It was tempting to linger over coffee, but it was time to continue my journey to Sooke, site of the next and final report of my three-part Escape to Vancouver Island.

Chef Jordi Viladas of Cafe Lago works the new Woodstone Josper oven, an impressive charcoal broiler oven that roasts chicken in 20 minutes and medium-rare steaks in 4 minutes.

---

---

This chicken reminded me of yakitori dishes I've enjoyed in Japan--also cooked over charcoal.

The sexy blanc de blanc room at the new Urban Enoteca, "a destination dedicated to the enjoyment of Washington State's wonderful wines."

The kitchen where Chef Jason Wilson (of Crush) can create culinary masterpieces for small and large events.

As skeptical as I was about going on a food-related trip to Whistler, I was even more skeptical about making a similar trip to Vancouver Island. I’d been to both places about fifteen years ago, but I figured that Whistler had probably evolved more. The Olympics were there, foreigners hung out there on an ongoing basis, and you could drive there from Vancouver. It’s part of Canada, whereas Victoria is, what, part of England? I always told inquirers that it’s a place you only need to see once. Too prim-and-proper. See the Gardens, enjoy the buskers, maybe have tea…but bring some cartons of Chinese food from Vancouver if you want something good to eat.

And then, recently, I got gifted a bottle of balsamic vinegar from Venturi-Shultze, and told that Vancouver Island is a bounty of good food. One sip of the vinegar, and I was already making plans to give Victoria and environs another chance.

---

And am I glad I did!It’s an easy trip from Seattle. My partner and I planned on the Victoria Clipper outbound and then a return via a Kenmore Air seaplane in order to experience the trip both ways. Three hours on the boat gave me time to review our itinerary, as the eating would begin almost immediately upon arrival. It was a majestic entry into the harbor, and then just a quick (five-minutes or so) walk to the Inn at Laurel Point, our home-away-from-home in Victoria.

---

Before getting into the food, a bit about the hotel. My suite was contemporary and luxurious—with an area available for in-room spa services. The setting is spectacular. Lots of glass meant lots of natural light in the room (and throughout the hotel), and there was a spacious balcony to watch the sunset, as well as both sailplanes and boats arriving and departing. Aura, the hotel restaurant, has gotten lots of accolades for its use of local ingredients and its Japanese/European approach, though this trip I only got to experience the typical breakfast fare.

Commendably, this independent property earned a Four Green Key Eco-Rating, and is the first and only carbon-neutral hotel in British Columbia. (It’s also the first place I’ve seen requesting use of a small towel to pull open the bathroom door—perfect for those with mysophobia or just taking precautions in our Purell-pervasive society.) The Inn at Laurel Point is a wonderful place to stay, and just a short stroll away from all the sights.

We had reservations for obligatory Afternoon Tea, which meant having to hustle if we wanted to squeeze in a snack beforehand. Which we did, naturally. We dashed over to Pig BBQ Joint, where we not only enjoyed a nicely smoked pulled pork sandwich, but even better baked beans. Turns out they’re made with three types of beans, along with red pepper, onion, celery, BBQ sauce, mustard, and seasonings. This is a hip place to eat.

 

And then it was tea time, an elegant affair in the majestic lobby of the Fairmont Empress Hotel. It’s fun if you’re into finger sandwiches, as you’ll get a multi-level tray with a variety of sandwiches, along with pastries including, of course, the famous freshly baked raisin scones with strawberry jam and Empress cream. Sit back and relax, and imagine you’re in England. Afternoon Tea is an expensive indulgence, so figure out how flush you are before deciding whether this makes the cut. And note that there are other options, including similar service at Butchart Gardens if you’re enjoying time out there.

If, like me, you’re not a milk-and-tea type of person, you might enjoy a contrasting experience: tea tasting at Silk Road. It’s a tea store that also sells organic skin and body care products, with an added feature of a spa on site. (I’ve heard good things about the spa, though I enjoyed a treatment at Sapphire Day Spa instead, which I’ll discuss in another forum.) Silk Road offers a number of educational experiences; in Tea Tasting 101, I learned a lot about a variety of Asian teas. Check their schedule for other options, such as tea and chocolate pairing, and specialized classes, like making tea popsicles.

While Victoria boasts the oldest Chinatown in Canada, there’s little buzz about anything especially exciting to eat there. Still, it’s an interesting area for strolling, as is Fort Street, where you’ll find the kitchy Dutch Bakery and Coffee Shop, Choux Choux Charcuterie, and Plenty Epicurean Pantry. In general, Asian food in Victoria can’t compare to what’s available in Vancouver. When Red Fish Blue Fish disappointed us by closing early, we settled for a sincere but rather mediocre meal at Le Petit Saigon Vietnamese Restaurant. (The pho was bland, without options for a wide variety of meats, and the lemongrass pork dish was just so-so.)

Although we appreciated the variety of offerings at Foo Asian Street Food, we were underwowed with the laksa (though we appreciate the use of local fish) and butter chicken, wishing for bolder flavors, and felt that the place was a little overpriced. $11 and $12 respectively for our meals served in Chinese to-go boxes seemed like too much.

One Asian place we did like was Daidoco, a Japanese deli that uses locally sourced, organic ingredients. This cute spot is hidden in Nootka Court, right next to Victoria's Bug Zoo. Satisfying were the tuna-don (using, yes, local tuna, served on rice) and a bowl of greens.

I  didn’t want to fill up too much, though, as part two of that day’s lunch was at Devour. The chilled melon soup had intense flavor with a wonderful hint of spicy pepper, while the fresh local fig and blue cheese tart was divine, served up with a superb green salad that had almonds and strawberries. I’ve since sent many people who’ve raved about their experiences here, and I can’t wait to return for a fuller meal. 

Chinatown was the scene for our favorite dinner in Victoria—at the newly opened Ulla, recommended by the people at Pig BBQ Joint. We originally considered the acclaimed Brasserie L’Ecole, which gets good reviews, but there was a short wait, and we didn’t see anything on the menu that compelled us to stay. Ulla, on the other hand, was ooh-la-la tempting, stylish with flourishes of contemporary art, and with a sense of experimentation in the menu. The restaurant had only recently opened, but the chef agreed to do a tasting menu for us. This meal was a sight to behold, and delicious.

Salad of heirloom tomatoes, beans, watercress, ricotta, and roasted lemon vinaigrette (bright, bold flavors)

Beef tartare with roasted pepper, cilantro, creme fraiche, and potato chips (I liked this version of tartare, with its interesting texture)

Giant Pacific octopus with new potatoes, celery, chives, and watercress (seared then braised, the octopus was tasty, though less chewy than I prefer)

Lamb sirloin with pea puree, potato gnocchi, chanterelles, and salsa verde (fabulous flavors in this dish, but I wish the lamb had been simply seared instead of sous vide cooked...the chef agreed, saying he did it for convenience)

Best of all were some breakfast finds. Lady Marmalade, which serves breakfast all day, caught my eye for one particular dish. When in Canada, I feel predisposed to eat poutine, and Lady Marmalade prepares a hashbrown version with aged white cheddar and—get this—miso gravy. Fabulous!

Our favorite discovery, based on a recommendation from Ulla’s owner (who talked about the source of her bread), was Fol Epi. It’s across the Blue Bridge into Vic West. You’ll know you’re there when you see the crowds sitting out on the patio. Wow. Croissants just out of the oven might be the best I’ve had, though I can’t certify that, as I should have waited to try one after it cooled down. And, oh, the sandwiches. We tried a wild sockeye and tomato on wheat, and a smoked albacore tuna on a baguette. The breads were amazing, and the fillers fantastic.  I’m sad that I didn’t try the sweets, but we were taking off on a trip to Cowichan Valley (my next report), where lots more eating awaited us. Besides, it’s good to leave something for next time, and we look forward to returning to Fol Epi and Victoria.

(And special thanks to the nice folks at Victoria Clipper for squeezing us on a boat to return to Seattle. Kenmore Air canceled its flights due to bad weather, so while I await my chance to fly on a seaplane for the first time, we were grateful to get home in time for work the next day.)

I've been on a bit of a burger binge lately.

Part of the reason: USA Today asked me to pick a best (though not necessarily the best) burger in Washington for a national feature. So I ate a few from around the state, and even sampled what turned out to be the best in our adjoining state of Idaho, and you can find my pick here.

In the midst of this, Kidd Valley asked me to judge their 35th Anniversary Burger Battle. It was a fun event, featuring six local firefighters serving up their specialties in a friendly competition to benefit the Muscular Dystrophy Association.

Our judging panel picked a clear winner: Mike "Suey" Sulak's Blazin' Flashover Bacon Burger.

---

---

The best part of the contest: The general public gets to taste a version of the winning burger, which hit the Kidd Valley menu this week. While the competition burger featured a whopping 22 ingredients, including Third Degree Burn Doritos ground into the patties and fabulous double-smoked bacon that Suey (from Engine House Number 8, at the top of Queen Anne) got from a Hungarian butcher in Chicago, the one you can buy has been scaled back a bit for service purposes.

Still, it's a reasonable replica of the real thing, consisting of two quarter-pound beef patties, two slices of pepperjack cheese, jalapeno bacon, jalapenos, red onions, yellow peppers, pickles, lettuce, tomato, spicy sauce, and spicy Doritos. But act fast. The burger, which costs $5.94, is available at all Kidd Valley locations—but only until the end of the year.

So many in Seattle are atwitter with Canlis' menu contest. And rightly so. In hiding 50 menus in 50 days (Sundays off, generally), Canlis is providing 50 lucky Seattleites the chance to dine (with a guest) at 1950s prices. It's all part of Canlis' 60th birthday celebration.

The contest is brilliant on many levels. First, the clue-giving is a fantastic use of social media. Second, it's intellectually stimulating, as the answers often emerge from riddles, plays-on-words, etc. Related to that, the contest connects Canlis and all the contestants (and that's anyone) to Seattle, teaching a lot about regional history in the process. And finally, it's hip, bringing a new generation of fans into the Canlis fold.

For those not fortunate enough to find a menu, I always say that you can enjoy the splendor of Canlis by enjoying a bite (maybe teriyaki, or dessert and a drink?) in the bar area. Better yet, instead of a $2.75 salmon steak or $3.85 filet mignon from that 1950s menu, see how Canlis has changed by checking out the chef's tasting menu. Here's what Jason Franey is serving up this fall:

---

Amuse Bouche: Sunchoke soup and white truffle ice cream (this connected to the amazing white truffle menu that I enjoyed the same night)

---

Au Lepe Tartare en Roulade: Sushi-grade Hawaiian sailfish with endive, apple, pomegranate and steelhead roe (so texturally interesting, and one of my favorite courses of the night, with the endive wrapped around the sailfish, and the roe adding its bursts of flavor)

Of Earth & Ocean: Braised octopus, calamari, and Blue Hawaiian prawn with mango, green papaya, avocado and lime (my "sexy dish" of the night, with more description here)

Oxtail Ravioli: Tender, hand-formed ravioli with carrots, bone marrow and veal consommé (the broth was captivating)

Rack of Venison: Dry-aged and encrusted with juniper berry, served with Saskatoon berry and Manjari chocolate (hearty and earthy)

Pear sorbet: parsnip and vanilla purée, pumpernickel streusel and preserved Meyer lemon (I loved the savory aspect of the purée, as well as the unique streusel)

The menu specified one dessert, but my table was site of a parade of treats:

Greens of pistachio and mint...

A bunch of bananas...

That last one was my favorite: a crème fraiche parfait. With all its savory elements (why don't more desserts incorporate savory elements?), it reminded me of the fabulous desserts I ate at Portland's Fenouil last summer. (Pastry chef Kristen Murray has since moved to Paley's Place.) Just some of the elements: the tube of parfait with wasabi and grapefruit glass on top, candied almonds, olives, fresh grapefruit and grapefruit gel, celery root and cream, candied grapefruit peel in simple syrup, and fresh shiso.

Like my whole meal at Canlis, I found this dessert to be creative, playful, sophisticated, thought-provoking--and absolutely delicious.

Too much time away from Seattle means an admitted lack of local reviews, but here’s a look at some “competition.”

I’m in Philadelphia, where Jose Garces is gathering together a little empire of restaurants. I went to two of his seven properties: Chifa and Distrito.

Recall that Garces took on Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi of Joule in his debut battle on Iron Chef America. Like others in attendance at the viewing party, I thought Garces got gifted a victory, as his food look less inspired than that of the Joule chefs.

My visit to Chifa confirmed my doubts. This Asian-influenced tapas place features Peruvian and Cantonese flavors, but lacked the boldness I was seeking and enjoy at Joule. For example, the highly acclaimed pork belly bao buns suffered a bit, primarily because the buns overpowered the meat. Maybe I just prefer a simpler bun, like Momofuku’s or the one I had at Joule, in a dish they did for me that’s featured in the current issue of Edible Seattle.

---

The crab empanada and marlin tataki were uninspiring. I did find the chicharrones with crispy pork and green curried lentils interesting, and my favorite dish was the Chinese water spinach with ginger-soy glazed snap peas, enoki mushrooms, and fennel—perhaps the “purest” dish of the bunch with less force of fusion.

---

Distrito was better, likely because of a more pure focus on Mexican food. I enjoyed a spicy tortilla soup and an earthy huarache do hongas (essentially a flatbread, this one with forest mushrooms and black truffles), though I thought the meal was a little pricey at $15 plus tax and tip.

And if you peek beyond the huarache in the photo, you'll get a sense of the second-floor color scheme. Lots of pink, on the walls, the chairs, the napkins, and seemingly everywhere. And a stairwell wall full of lucha libre masks that was pretty cool.

After Distrito, I strolled further west to check out Koch’s Deli, intrigued by recommendations. My visit there will be my most memorable food experience of the trip. Talk about heaven for a former New Yorker. The workers are known for their generosity with sampling, which helps appease the long line of people inevitably waiting to place lunch orders. The tongue was terrific, and the hot pastrami was melt-in-my-mouth delicious.

I placed an order for a Lou Koch double decker, a behemoth of a sandwich with roast beef, turkey, and chopped liver and choice of condiments. Oh…and good pickles. The owner delivered my sandwich personally, leaving me to wonder whether he’d extend such deliveries to Seattle, where we’re much in need of such a high-quality deli.

While some are supping on sushi in Seattle, I'm down in the Napa Valley attending the Culinary Institute of America's Worlds of Flavor International Conference & Festival, with this year's theme being "Japan: Flavors of Culture."

And while I was especially amused seeing Masaharu Morimoto and Hiroyuki Sakai yukking it up, I must say there's an incredible number of amazing chefs, Iron and otherwise, doing presentations and preparing food. Many of the masters from Japan are here, along with the likes of Thomas Keller, David Chang, and Chris Cosentino from the States.

---

Yoshiki Tsuji, president of the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka, gave the opening keynote. His look at traditions and innovations of Japanese cuisine was jam-packed with facts, philosophy, and a bit of fun. For example, while Japan is roughly the same size as California, the country has 50 percent more coastline than our entire country, which helps explain (along with other factors he outlined) the popularity of seafood there.

---

Tsuji discussed the evolution of sushi as popular fast food in Japan. Then, using PowerPoint graphics, he explained how the original nigiri sushi (from the Edo period) was the size of an iPhone, then in more recent times went down to the size of an iPod, and in today's recessionary times is now the size of an iPod shuffle. Funny guy. But very insightful, kicking off the conference in fine fashion.

Consul General Hiroshi Inomata (from San Francisco) summed up the big message from the opening night: "Japanese cuisine is our culture." These three days will be a big cultural experience, full of learning and eating. I'm looking forward to presentations and cooking workshops on Osaka street food, noodle-making, building umami, and much more.

You can follow some of the action on Twitter by following Worlds of Flavor or the conference hashtag.