The previous “Pizza Parlor Friday Holler” took me west from Queen Anne to Magnolia for Neapolitan-style pizza at Queen Margherita. This time I head north to Fremont for a completely different, Chicago-style pie. Destination: Kylie’s Chicago Pizza.
Back when airplane travel was much easier, I’d dash out of O’Hare Airport during long layovers to pick up a deep-dish pizza. If I planned my time wisely, I could count on the “L” to take me to places like Giordano’s or Gino’s East, returning in time to stuff myself with stuffed pizza on the plane, making my seatmates jealous.
Kylie’s is much closer than Chicago, though you’ll need to consider your time here as well. The menu advises a 25-minute wait for a deep-dish pizza. Some people call in their order ahead of time, though if you’re eating in, you’ll also need to consider table availability, as Kylie’s is a small space that can get crowded. (It will seem even smaller if you’re stuck listening to two tables with babies screaming in stereo. Parents, have you considered take-out?)
To fill the wait time and to fulfill a hungry stomach, I started with chicken wings. The menu promised over a pound of wings (they were mostly drummies) with baby carrots (easier to prep than celery, I suppose) and a choice of ranch or blue cheese dressing, all for $9. With nine wings on the plate, they came to one dollar apiece, and they disappointed as “Buffalo” style, lacking the crispy “seal” of a deep-fried wing (these were slightly soggy) as well as the spicy punch.
Fortunately, Kylie’s did Chicago better than it did Buffalo. (There are also thin-crust pizzas available, but if at Chicago-style joint, what’s the point?) In a meaty mood, thoughts of sausage and pepperoni prevailed as I went with the “Combo.” The 10-inch pie ($18; there’s also a 12-inch version for $24) sets you up with six pork-filled slices that also include green peppers, onions, mushrooms, and black olives.
It’s a colossal affair, and in contrast to the New York-style slice that you pick up, fold (letting the extra grease run down to the paper plate), and eat out of hand, Chicago-style means utensils. The tall slice stands strong due to the thick crust, which requires a little light sawing with a knife. That crust, made with cornmeal, is a bit buttery and slightly tangy. With all of the fillings (including the chunky tomato sauce), I felt like I was eating more of a quiche than a pizza.
The sausage pieces were larger than I like, with those at the top of the pie a little overcooked and dried out. Next time, I’ll probably revert back to my preferred, basic cheese pie. But overall, the pizza was pretty good, with two slices sufficient for dinner—leaving the third slice (it reheats well, pleasing to this person who prefers not to eat cold pizza) as a bonus for breakfast the next day.
“There are also thin-crust pizzas available, but if at Chicago-style joint, what’s the point?”
Yes, Chicago is known for its deep dish and that’s why you made that statement…but it always baffles me that people think Chicago only does deep dish/stuffed well. Growing up in the suburbs and living in the city after college, I’d say we ate thin crust 9 times out of 10. And, it’s fantastic. So is the deep dish and stuffed, of course.
I usually crave the good thin crust with a slightly sweet sauce and buttery crust when I go home, not the stuffed or deep dish.
True that! There’s more than pizza style native to Chicago. The kind I grew up eating with my family on the Northwest Side is this one: http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2008/01/a-list-of-regional-pizza-styles-slideshow.html#show-85735
Geoff and Audrey, thanks for the comments. I’ve had thin-crust in Chicago, too, but didn’t find it significantly different than thin-crust elsewhere. Nor did I find it especially delicious, and therefore I didn’t recommend it in this article. But if I’ve missed the boat on good, Chicago-style thin-crust available here in Seattle (or next time to Chicago), please send me specific recommendations!