Doig Spins a Wholly Original “Bartender’s Tale”

Following on his much-praised Work Song, set in Butte in 1919, Seattle novelist Ivan Doig returns readers to Montana, but this time it’s the ’60s, and the tiny town of Gros Ventre, which, if it’s anywhere, would be up in Glacier National Park.

It’s a father-and-son story narrated by Rusty (the son) about his bartender father Tom Harry, proprietor of the Medicine Lodge saloon. (Gros Ventre is more commonly known as the name of a Native American tribe, who prefer to go by “White Clay People.”)

Rusty is enduring a lightly Dickensesque, misfit childhood with his Arizona relations when Tom swoops in, scoops him up, and ferries him off to the hinterlands of Montana.

The story goes off in many different directions after that: There’s the exploration of his new home and the struggle to fit in; the more consistently pleasant discovery of Zoe, the new girl in town; surprising revelations about family history; and a drop-in grad student-oral historian named for Franklin Delano Roosevelt, which allows Doig to delve into the silty history of WPA-era dirt dams.

But for Rusty, things keep coming back to the fragility of his bond with his father, even as their rapport grows. Through his novel, Doig makes the penetrating psychological observation that these kinds of wounds aren’t easily healed, don’t respond to reason. The better Rusty gets along with his dad, the more likely he is to be blindsided by changes that conjure the fear of losing everything he’s gained.

This night was the darkest of my life in every way. I lay under strange old heavy blankets in that musty bedroom, listening to the wind, knowing it was whipping up the snow into a ground blizzard, the absolute worst thing for Pop if he was out there somewhere trying to drive home. My thoughts swirled and whirled as well.

By the end of the book, the town of Gros Ventre and its inhabitants have gained the stature of distant relations. Doig has made a long cast with his narrative arc–Rusty’s curiosity about his origins is a lot to hang almost 400 pages on. You come to appreciate the moments that life, in its episodic carelessness, seems to brush Rusty’s concerns aside, and let someone else’s in.

The grizzled sheepherder clutched the shot glass so tightly he seemed to be drinking out of his fist. “I lost a couple hunnerd in this storm,” he said hollowly, “never had it happen before in all the years. Had them out in bunches like I was supposed to, so the ewes could eat a little new grass to help their milk. It started blizzarding so goddamn fast I only got about half the bunches into the shed. The others, they’re froze under the snowdrifts.” Shoulders hunched miserably, he looked like he was about to cry.

On TV in 1960, you could watch the efforts of the original men working on Madison Avenue. In Doig’s telling, the time is almost entirely free of television. Rusty’s entertainment is listening in to bar conversation through an air vent. “Sensational stuff, isn’t it?” asks grad student Del in another context. “Pure lingua americana.” That’s what Doig has cooked up here.

Want an iPhone 5 Right Now? Switch to Verizon, Head to Radio Shack

After waiting a few days for the serious iPhone 5 crush to die down, I stopped in at the University Village Apple Store yesterday to see about picking up a phone, curious to see whether the stories I’d heard about a stressed supply chain were true.

“AT&T?” asked the Apple Store staffer. I nodded. “We’re sold out. You can pre-order online.” I asked if he knew if the U Village AT&T store had any in stock. He did not know, so I walked over and asked the AT&T salespeople.

“Sorry, no, but you can pre-order.”

I should say I don’t understand this use of the word “pre-order.” (The phone is for sale right now, yes? What you’re saying is that I can order it.)

UPDATE: Josh in the comments is correct. Apple also allows you to play a late-evening game, where you can visit the Apple Store online between 10 p.m. and 4 a.m., and if any phones are available, they’ll be offered for sale there. Then they’ll ship your purchase to a physical Apple Store of your choice for pick-up the next day.

How long would it take to get an iPhone that way? 23 days, the salesperson said. That sounds right. Visiting Apple.com, I can choose an AT&T iPhone that is available to ship in “3 to 4 weeks.”

But Milo, the SKU-sniffer for local shopping options, tells me that all that’s needed is to switch to Verizon or Sprint, and head to a Radio Shack or Best Buy, where the hordes of Apple fans fear to tread. The 16GB models are less popular than the 32GB, apparently. (Don’t bother with iPhone5InStock–it’s linkbait.)

UPDATE THE SECOND: But what to do with your old iPhone? A whole ecosystem has sprung up to relieve you of this now-useless appendage, and for a sometimes surprisingly good return. eBay has its Instant Sale option, for instance, if cold, hard cash matters most: “Someone just accepted $140.00 for Apple iPhone 4 16GB Verizon.” Over at Amazon, your iPhone trade-in will net you $170 for the same 16GB iPhone 4–but in Amazon Gift Card credit. Bringing up the rear is Gazelle which will offer you $135 for the same model.

Didja Hear About the Seahawks? Not the Refs, the Defense

Seattle Football Weekend Article LogoThe refs. Of course you want to talk about the refs. Who didn’t yesterday? [These people–ed.]

It wasn’t just the water cooler topic at work, it was the hallway topic, the lunchroom topic, the elevator topic, the copier room topic and the bathroom stall topic.

Yes, the refs screwed up. No, I’ve never seen a worse call. Yes, we all owe a beer to side judge Lance Easley, a banker from Santa Maria, CA who until this season had never refereed a professional or major college game.

What got lost in the official hysteria was something that’s less fun to talk about, but way more significant–the legendary defensive by the Seahawks’ defense.

–8 sacks of Aaron Rodgers.
–Holding the potent Pack to 3.9 yards per play (they averaged 6.6 ypp in 2011).
–Allowing just one pass play longer than 20 yards (the Pack had 70 such pass plays last year).

After three games, the Seahawks have allowed the fewest points in the league. They’re currently on pace to permit just 208 points on the season, which would shatter the team record set by the ’91 Hawks, and is nearly 200 points fewer than the 407 allowed by the decrepit 2010 Hawks in Carroll’s first season.

Part of the reason the defense has been so successful at preventing points is that the offense has been so conservative. Russell Wilson threw two long touchdown passes Monday, and that was about it. However, he also didn’t turn the ball over, and his steady play, combined with Jon Ryan’s stellar punting, meant that Green Bay started all 9 of their drives in their own territory. The Packers’ average starting point was their own 18 yard line.

Monday’s Hail Mary aside, this won’t be a season of leaping catches and breakaway runs. “We’re raising a quarterback in the system,” Pete Carroll told ESPN 710 yesterday. “It is a struggle for some people to understand that, but we’re going to keep moving along. There will be a time when it won’t feel exactly like it feels right now. But it’s not time.”

In other words, train yourself to appreciate good pass coverage, solid tackling, and quarterback sacks. That’s where your NFL thrills will come from in 2012. From the looks of it, there will be a lot of them.

OTHER FOOTBALL
Last Friday night–it seems like a lifetime ago–I swung over to Memorial Stadium to watch Skyline High’s Max Browne, who ESPN rates at the #2 high school quarterback in the USA. Roosevelt High’s Roughriders did nothing to disprove that ranking–Browne led Skyline to a TD just 59 seconds into the game. He didn’t even play the whole first half, letting a backup get some reps with Skyline comfortably ahead. Browne will compete for the starting QB job at USC next season–he throws an accurate deep ball, I can attest to that.

Op-Ed: Frank Chopp to Try to Defend State Democrats’ Craven Retreat on Progressive Issues to Actual Progressive

Kshama Sawant, your Socialist Alternative (Photo: Sawant campaign)

Democratic Speaker of the State House Frank Chopp has a tricky job cut out for himself tonight. He has to debate with, politically speaking, a gnat, and somehow not look foolish or (worse) outgunned.

UPDATE: There’s a Livestream of the debate available if you don’t mind having to create a Livestream account to see it.

Chopp has agreed to cross policy-swords with his surprise challenger for reelection, Kshama Sawant (7:30 p.m., Seattle University Student Center, Room 160). 

Sawant has been using what, elsewhere than the “Soviet of Seattle,” might be construed as a weakness as a means of drumming up media coverage. An economics professor at Seattle Central Community College, Sawant publicizes her membership in American Federation of Teachers Local 1789, and has gone to court to win the right to label herself a socialist.

In the primary, Sawant was actually running against Jamie Pedersen (here’s a profile from Capitol Hill Seattle). But it was alternative weekly The Stranger‘s idea to make the socialist alternative candidate a write-in against Frank Chopp.

In their endorsement, The Stranger‘s Election Control Board noted that “Sawant had originally filed to run against house Speaker Frank Chopp. We wish she’d stuck with her instincts, because Pedersen isn’t part of the Democratic problem.”

Frank Chopp (Photo: Chopp campaign)

Then they added this last bit:

Speaker Frank Chopp has done a great job building and maintaining a Democratic majority, but he’s done a crappy job using it, presiding over a decade of budget cuts while doing nothing to address our state’s structural revenue deficit.

That’s why we’re writing in Kshama Sawant, who didn’t file in this race, but should have.

To the delight of card-carrying socialists everywhere, when the votes were counted up Sawant had won eleven percent of the votes in Position 2 as a write-in against Chopp.

Laissez-whatevs state law allows a candidate to, you know, go with the flow in terms of the voting public’s captious inclinations, so Sawant, issuing press releases at every juncture, has finally ended up with a debate scheduled against Chopp tonight while Pedersen gets to sit at home with the kids watching Matthew Perry in Go On. (Tonight he plays hockey!)

This is of interest to you or not depending on how enamored you are with machine politics, as co-opted by the Democratic and Republican parties. If you’re of a more representative, even parliamentarian, bent, the identity overlap between Seattle’s 43rd legislative district and an Indian woman with degrees in computer science and economics may seem particularly apt.

“Our Democratic majority and agenda has accomplished more in the last few years than has been done in decades,” says Chopp on his reelection site. The Schmudget budget wonks back him up on this, it just depends on whether you’re proud of the accomplishment: “Investments that support a strong state economy–such as higher education, child care, job training, and health care–already have been slashed by some $10.6 billion since 2009.”

In another post, Schmudget adds that “Poverty among Washingtonians increased from 9 percent before the recession (2006-2007), to 12 percent in 2010-2011, and median income declined by $4,630 over the same period.”

While Democrats have found renewed strength in their budget-axe arm, hacking away at support for the poor, unemployed, uninsured, mentally ill, and so forth, they were able to see their way to funding the single most expensive Viaduct replacement option, and to moving ahead with the 520 bridge replacement project, even though more than two billion dollars in funding has yet to be identified.

Whatever the realities of the recession, unless the Democratic motto is really “Standing with you…in good times,” their record on defending social spending and responding to change with innovation has been miserable. (PS: Craziest Budget Cut by Washington State Legislature in 2011? Why is the Legislature Trying to Kill Washington State Parks?) As Speaker, Chopp has a lot to answer for.

An Unforgettable 10-Course, 5-Hour Dinner at Feast Portland

feastdinner1-1-640-306
feastdinner1-2-640-319
feastdinner1-3-640-325
feastdinner1-4a-640-330
feastdinner1-4b-640-332
feastdinner1-5a-640-335
feastdinner1-5b-640-339
feastdinner1-6-640-340
feastdinner1-7-640-344
feastdinner1-8-640-362
feastdinner1-9-640-365
feastdinner1-10-640-366
feastdinner1-menu-640-371
feastdinner1-kitchen-640-358

Brown rice, crudite. A sure sign that this would be an interesting meal.

Leche del tigre ets fruits. I especially loved the tomatoes in this tiger's milk.

Inverted fromage blanc tart, fennel, wheatgrass. Fascinating. Delicious.

Coquillages, palmier, beurre manzanilla. This looked like a fur-ball.

Same dish, better revealed, though I'm still not sure of all the components. Shellfish for sure, including geoduck, and some sherry butter, I believe.

Start of chilled piquillo pepper soup, fresh and shelling beans, preserved lemon, roman mint.

The completed soup, deep in color and flavor.

Fish and chips, pilpil. Interesting play on this dish. The fish was black cod. I believe that's beet powder (fun when spilled on a sweater) on the chips. Pilpil is a Basque sauce that's an emulsion made with fish oils.

Emigh ranch lamb, chard leaves and stems, garum, rosemary. (Garum is an ancient Roman fermented fish sauce.) I loved the level of doneness on the meat.

Frozen Bearss lime marshmallow, coal-toasted meringue. Meticulous preparation, major wow factor. The texture and temperature were especially intriguing, and the taste was very refreshing.

Tocino de cielo means "bacon from heaven," but no bacon in the spin of this flan-like dessert, which we were encouraged to eat in one bite.

Candied raspberries

The menu for the meal, chalked on a wall. (I didn't see this until halfway through the dinner, or mistook it for class notes.)

The scene inside the kitchen, where Daniel Patterson (seen trying to cool off hot coal) and Inaki Aizpitarte (far left) did their magic.

feastdinner1-1-640-306 thumbnail
feastdinner1-2-640-319 thumbnail
feastdinner1-3-640-325 thumbnail
feastdinner1-4a-640-330 thumbnail
feastdinner1-4b-640-332 thumbnail
feastdinner1-5a-640-335 thumbnail
feastdinner1-5b-640-339 thumbnail
feastdinner1-6-640-340 thumbnail
feastdinner1-7-640-344 thumbnail
feastdinner1-8-640-362 thumbnail
feastdinner1-9-640-365 thumbnail
feastdinner1-10-640-366 thumbnail
feastdinner1-menu-640-371 thumbnail
feastdinner1-kitchen-640-358 thumbnail

One of the most fascinating aspects of last weekend’s spectacular Feast Portland festival was the Dinner Series and its intriguing teaming of chefs. Matthew Lightner (Atera) with Sean Brock (Husk and McGrady’s), for example. Or how about Jenn Louis (Lincoln and more) and April Bloomfield (The Spotted Pig and more) with Hedy Goldsmith (Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink)?

I was most excited, though, to attend dinner by Inaki Aizpitarte and Daniel Patterson. I had a fabulous meal at Aizpitarte’s Le Chateaubriand in Paris last year, and the same at Patterson’s Plum in Oakland. (I’ve yet to try his Coi restaurant in San Francisco.) Working together, I knew their food would be inventive, and I was not disappointed.

The dinner menu listed ten courses, and the meal would run five hours. Wine pairings and wonderful company–some top names from the food industry–made the time fly by and provided resources to help figure out the rhyme and reason for the dishes.

What I like most about Aizpitarte and Patterson is that their food makes me think, with deliciousness a bonus. Sadly, lighting was low, making it a challenge to fully appreciate the colors and plating of the food, as well as to take quality photos. Still, I encourage you to check out the slideshow above for a look at the menu, dishes, and kitchen action. The dishes were like works of art, so I offer them to you with minimal explanation (little more than the chef’s descriptions) to allow your own interpretation.