When I first moved to Seattle, the better seafood choices were largely limited to the more expensive, tourist-oriented restaurants that lined various parts of the Elliott Bay waterfront. Ray’s Boathouse was the pleasant place to take out-of-towners for dinner (especially if they were paying!), while I opted for the more humble Little Chinook’s at Fishermen’s Terminal for chowder and fish ‘n chips if on my own dime. (For those open to “Asian” flavors, my seafood recommendations soon switched to Seven Stars Pepper for Sichuan crab or, even better, some of my favorite sushi joints: Kisaku, Sushi Kappo Tamura, and Mashiko.)
The situation’s changed in the past couple of years, with quality seafood restaurants opening away from Elliott Bay. I’ve been a fan of Tanglewood Supreme in Magnolia, and though I lament the loss of lunch service there, happy hour’s a great deal, and the dinner menu always has a handful of seafood specialties. Westward is shining the spotlight on seafood with some interesting Mediterranean influences, featuring a fine oyster bar and a menu that includes smoked Manila oyster dip and whole fish roasted in the wood oven. Currently nominated for a James Beard award for Outstanding Restaurant Design, Westward sits pretty on Lake Union for a fine waterfront experience.
Top of my list now, though, may be RockCreek in Fremont. Chef Eric Donnelly is no stranger to seafood, as was formerly at Oceanaire downtown. (This spot is now Blueacre, another good choice for seafood.) RockCreek sports an upscale “fishing lodge” look, with a main dining room and an upstairs loft that also has a nifty private dining space. Donnelly’s goal is to go beyond the staples and introduce diners to fin fish from all over the world. His preparations are global—some restrained to emphasize the subtle flavors of the fish itself, and some with bold and bright ingredient combinations and flavors.
A previously satisfying brunch experience made me eager to return to RockCreek. Thinking back to the delicious Dungeness crab relleno and my partner’s bacon and fried oyster Benedict, I had high hopes for fish of the unfried variety.
The one-page menu has a half-dozen starters along with oysters in shooter and half-shell form. Seafood choices intensify in the small plate section, ideal for sharing. Landlubbers can skip to the bottom of the menu to find a few meat, poultry, and pasta items, but seafood fans should especially focus on the “Fin Fish” section with about ten selections that can change based on season and availability.
I sampled my way around the menu, trying oysters, a salad with seared sardines, hamachi crudo, barbequed octopus, and a few of those fin fish dishes. See the slideshow above for a detailed look.