Tag Archives: Aura

Victoria: A Third Time for Feasting on Food

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French toast at Willie's Bakery

Inside Willie's Bakery

Willie's Bakery from the street...since 1887

A selection of salami at Choux Choux Charcuterie

Sampler platters at Choux Choux (the pate is amazing)

Some of the cheese at Hilary's Fine Cheeses

Inside Hilary's

The classic look of The Dutch Bakery & Coffee Shop

Vanilla slices at The Dutch Bakery

Dollar rolls at The Dutch Bakery

Tamarind ice cream (made with coconut milk) and cardamom macarons (big!) from Cold Comfort

The Cold Comfort car at the farmers market

A showcase full of smoked albacore tuna sandwiches at Fol Epi

A closer look at Fol Epi's smoked albacore tuna sandwich

AURA's smoked albacore tuna sandwich

A closer look at AURA's tuna sandwich

The line at Red Fish Blue Fish, where you can easily make friends while waiting

Red Fish Blue Fish's grilled Qualicum Bay scallop burger (with golden shallot aioli, tartar sauce, tempura dill pickle, lemon-pickled onions, and romaine hearts)

AURA's calamari (togarashi-spiced)

A sampling of soups at AURA

AURA's sablefish

Dessert trio at AURA

Daytime view at the Inn at Laurel Point

View at sundown

Dry ribs (deep-fried nuggets of pork belly with star anise salt and black pepper) at The Black Hat

The Black Hat's grilled salad (with roasted red peppers, roasted almonds, pickled red onions, Manchego cheese, and Romesco vinaigrette)

Chef's sampling of fried chicken livers at The Black Hat

Regretfully, I've forgotten what this dish was at The Black Hat...might have been lamb on succotash

More at The Black Hat: duck with beans, braised daikon radish, house Sriracha, and duck spring roll with hoisin sauce

At Veneto, you can "spin the wheel" and have the bartender make a drink based on your preferences (here's a "bruschetta" with whiskey, basil, and balsamic vinegar)

Veneto is a "tapa lounge" where you can also get your desserts in small portions, like this self-chosen trio

Emu pate from Amuse on the Vineyard at Feast of Fields

Marina Restaurant doing an old-fashioned crab boil at Feast of Fields

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Victoria has gone from being “one time only” to a place I can’t get enough of—for food. You don’t need a car, so Victoria’s easy to reach via Victoria Clipper or Kenmore Air. Once there, go beyond the tourist spots and you’ll discover, as I have, some pretty impressive eating options. Adding to my reports from 2010 and 2011, here are some finds from my visit earlier this year.

Local Food Tour

For those who’d like a local to provide culinary highlights of Victoria (or other parts of Vancouver Island), take a look at the Travel with Taste tours. Kathy McAree offers a wide variety of tours, and can customize more to cater to your particular group’s needs. I joined on a modified Urban Culinary Walking Tour that started at Willie’s Bakery and continued to Choux Choux Charcuterie, Hilary’s Fine Cheeses, and the Dutch Bakery & Coffee Shop.

At each stop, you get a look inside, information about the establishment (often from the owner or one of the workers), and a chance to sample some of the offerings. McAree is passionate about the culinary world, and in addition to providing an entertaining experience, she can make further suggestions of eateries to try—as when she steered me to a local farmers market to find the Cold Comfort ice cream cart.

A Tale of Two Tuna Sandwiches, Plus a Potential for a Third

My first two reports about Victoria tell the tale of my love for Fol Epi, and specifically the smoked albacore tuna sandwich sold there. One of my favorite sandwiches in the world, it’s a must-have each trip I make to Vancouver Island.

While dining at AURA (see below), I learned that the restaurant has its own version of the tuna sandwich, which turned out to be a respectable competitor. During my Travel with Taste tour, McAree mentioned that Finest at Sea is a major supplier of the smoked albacore tuna and other seafood products in town. Their little seafood market, in walking distance of AURA, is worth a visit.

And after unsuccessful attempts in previous trips, I finally made it to Red Fish Blue Fish. The lines are long, but eventually I made it to the front window, with a tough task of ordering just one item. The top recommendation was the BBQ scallop burger, which was delicious. Next time, though, I just might just try the cold smoked tuna sandwich to see how it stacks up to Fol Epi’s.

Two Dinners, a Feast, and a Place to Relax and Sleep

As with a previous visit to Victoria, I stayed at the magnificent Inn at Laurel Point. This contemporary hotel has gorgeous harbor views. I loved sitting out on the balcony and watching the boats and seaplanes on the water.

This was my first chance to eat an enjoyable dinner at the aforementioned AURA, where the food was a welcome distraction from the water views.  The next night, I went to The Black Hat for a rather meaty (and delicious) meal, followed by a short walk (everything’s in easy range in central Victoria) to delight in a custom drink and dessert at Veneto.

Time your trip right, and you can visit Victoria during the annual Feast of Fields event. This benefit, which supports farmers and food producers throughout British Columbia, features some of the best restaurants, breweries, wineries, and producers in the area. This year’s highlights included an “interactive” crab boil, pizza production all afternoon, emu pate, wakame spaghetti, and zany black pepper raspberry s’more macarons for dessert. You can see some of the best bites of this year’s event here. The day in the field will likely leave you full, with no need for dinner—though there’s always room for another tuna sandwich.

See the slideshow above for all the food photos from Victoria.

Passport to Pleasure: A Relaxing Retreat to Whistler

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On the road to Whistler (Courtesy of Kirsten Skipp, Skipp Designs)

Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Centre (Courtesy of Gary Fiegehen, Gary Fiegehen Photography)

Great hall at Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Centre (Courtesy of Robin O'Neill, Robin O'Neill Photography)

Exhibit at Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Centre

Bison and wild boar smokey at Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Centre

View from the Peak 2 Peak

Scandinave Spa (Courtesy of Scandinave Spa)

Nita Lake Lodge (Courtesy of Nita Lake Lodge)

The patio at Nita Lake Lodge (Courtesy of Nita Lake Lodge)

"Trust Me" cocktail at Cure Lounge & Patio

Aura restaurant at Nita Lake Lodge (Courtesy of Nita Lake Lodge)

Aura's fresh salad w/beets, juniper berries, coriander, pumpkin seeds, and bresaola (dried beef)

Aura's halibut with Israeli cous cous

Aura's "Sex on a Plate" dessert

Guest room at Nita Lake Lodge (Courtesy of Nita Lake Lodge)

Cooking action at Zog's Dogs

Poutine options at Zog's Dogs (shown: regular and "Asian poutine")

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You don’t have to race down mountains on skis or a bike to enjoy Whistler. You and your loved one can enjoy the outdoors and other activities in a more relaxing, romantic way. Here are ideas for a memorable day in Whistler, where we stamp this week’s Passport to Pleasure—a hedonistic quest for great food and good times for two, from nibbles to naughtiness.

LEARNING IS FUN AT THE CULTURAL CENTRE

The best place to start in Whistler is, of course, at the beginning: learning about Whistler’s aboriginal history. You can now do that at the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre. The 30,400-square-foot complex is a cooperative venture by the Squamish and Lil’wat people designed to share their living cultures with the world.

You’ll watch an introductory movie in the theater, and then take time to explore the exhibits, including the hard-carved totem poles and cedar canoes. The handwoven baskets and textile-work are especially fascinating. Outdoors, don’t forget the forest walk and examples of living quarters: the Squamish longhouse and the Lil’wat istken—a traditional underground pit house that looks like a cozy retreat.

Hungry for lunch? You can stay on-site for lighter, less expensive fare at SLCC’s Café. Lil’wat venison chili with bannock (like fry bread) is a special treat, or try the bison and wild boar smokey. For finer dining, you can’t beat Araxi. (See more about Araxi here.)

PEAK-TO-PEAK, WITH A PEEK AT CHRISTINE’S

Next, it’s time to take to the sky. Head over to the Whistler Village Gondola, which will take the two of you up nearly 6,000 feet to connect to the Peak 2 Peak alpine experience. Choose your Peak 2 Peak gondola correctly, and not only do you have a 360-degree, panoramic view from as high as 1,430 feet from the valley floor, but you might also have floor windows that allow you to look straight to the ground. This two-and-three-quarter mile journey is a great way to get a feel for the majesty of the recent Winter Olympics venue, and a sense of awe in the marvel of construction of the peak-to-peak cable connection. Completion of Peak 2 Peak broke records for longest unsupported span, highest lift of its kind, and longest continuous lift system on the planet.

There are great hiking, biking, and skiing opportunities at both Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains. Or you can simply go to Christine’s, an idyllic spot for a drink and maybe a small snack on the fabulous patio, or one of the window-side tables inside. When you’re ready, you can descend down an open-air lift to the Blackcomb base in the Upper Village.

SOAKING AT SCANDINAVE SPA

Now it’s time for relaxation, hydrotherapy style, at Scandinave Spa. Regardless of the season, you can luxuriate in refreshing Scandinavian baths spread over three acres in a spectacular outdoor setting. Think Japanese onsen, but with the advantage that you can now be with your partner regardless of gender (Japanese onsens tend to be same-sex only), though unlike the Japanese experience, you’ll need a bathing suit.

Take in the three-stage bathing process: First, heat your body in the eucalyptus steam bath, hot baths, or wood-burning Finnish sauna. Next, cool your body quickly in the Nordic waterfalls, cold baths, or shower. Finally, relax in the solariums, hammocks, on a terrace, or by the outdoor fireplace. Repeat to your heart’s delight, with increased benefit if you can stay for a few hours. This will surely be special time together.

LOUNGING AT NITA LAKE LODGE

Your final stop (perhaps) for the day is Nita Lake Lodge. Start at Cure Lounge & Patio, where you can snuggle together on a couch and indulge in some whimsical cocktails and house-made charcuterie. Hailey Pasemko is the Commander and Chief of Beverage, and she uses fruits, chocolates, and fresh herbs (the Lodge has its own rooftop garden) in her concoctions. There are even food pairings to go with some of them, so you can stretch your time, perhaps moving out to the lakeside patio where there’s music many nights.

With drinks like “Taco Flavoured Kisses” (made with Cazadores Tequila, passion fruit, lime, tabasco, and chocolate) to “Half Asleep In Frog Pyjamas” (with Juniper Green Organic Gin, Giffard Manzana, cucumber, and watercress), you’ll find a perfect fit—and a social lubricant in the process. (My personal favorite is “Trust Me,” with Stoli Blueberi, chocolate liqueur, Chartreuse, Ricard Pastis, strawberry/fig balsamic reduction, and a garnish of fermented black garlic. Trust me: It’s amazing.)

After drinks, saunter into Aura restaurant, with a menu inspired by seasonal vegetables. But it’s not just the local farmers who shine; Aura also sources ingredients from local foragers, ranchers, and fisheries. Look for dishes like steelhead salmon with sweet corn and rooftop chard, or partridge with fondant potatoes, beetroot, cauliflower and cauliflower puree. And for dessert, how about something your server will likely call “sex on a plate”: chocolate with lavender ganache that is caramel-like and sure to be stimulating.

At this point, if you don’t feel like driving anywhere (and who can blame you), consider staying overnight. Nita Lake Lodge has 77 suites, with fireplaces and outdoor patios sure to make your stay simply luxurious. Add to that a visit to the Ashram Spa, offering Canada’s only authentic Ayurvedic experience. Here you can have holistic health consultation, spa treatments, and a yoga session in a 2,800-square-foot studio with breathtaking views of Whistler Mountain. Owner Ram Tumuluri says the whole Nita Lake Lodge concept is based on wellness, and that “everything you don’t think about in a hotel is us.”

THE PLEASURE OF POUTINE

If you stay up really late and need a midnight snack, Zog’s Dogs is there for you, open until at least 2 a.m. weekend nights. Some say you have to be drunk to appreciate the poutine; being high on life might suffice. Poutine is French fries, gravy, and cheese curds—and Zog’s puts its own spin with various options. Go basic, or try to figure out what the “Asian poutine” is all about. And then go back and try to burn a few of the calories with that special someone!