Tag Archives: Eagle Harbor Inn

Back to Bainbridge: Restaurant Reality Check, a New Museum, and More

Cafe Nola anchovies on toast
Cafe Nola eggs in purgatory
Cafe Nola chicken fried steak
Cafe Nola caramel pecan french toast
Hitchcock Deli Cuban B
Mora ice cream
Via Rosa 11 menu
Via Rosa 11 tomatoes
Via Rosa 11 pasta
Via Rosa 11 pesto
Via Rosa 11 mushroom sauce
Via Rosa 11 gemelli
Via Rosa 11 lasagna
Via Rosa 11 interior
Hitchcock oysters
Hitchcock sardines
Hitchcock charcuterie
Hitchcock soup
Hitchcock clams
Hitchcock intermezzo
Hitchcock roots
Hitchcock pork
Hitchcock short rib
Hitchcock cheese
Hitchcock terrine dessert
Hitchcock dessert

Daybreak view from the Eagle Harbor Inn

Toast and jam at Blackbird Bakery

Cafe Nola's white anchovies on toast

Eggs in purgatory (pan-fried potato cake, spicy tomato sauce, baby spinach, poached eggs, and Macrina toast) at Cafe Nola

Cafe Nola's chicken fried steak

Caramel pecan French toast at Cafe Nola

Hitchcock Deli's Cuban B: porchetta, smoked ham, Swiss, bread & butter pickles, Dijon mustard, and mayo

Frozen treats at Mora Ice Creamery: mango sorbet and mint with shaved chocolate ice cream

Menu board at Via Rosa 11

Via Rosa 11's baked stuffed tomatoes

Fresh-made pasta for sale at Via Rosa 11

Via Rosa 11's pesto

Wide pasta with porcini and wild mushroom sauce at Via Rosa 11

Gemelli with meatballs at Via Rosa 11

Via Rosa 11's lasagna

Inside Via Rosa 11

Hitchcock's oysters: Baywater Sweet with cider mignonette and coriander, Shigoku with sauerkraut granita, Rockaway Beach with pickled watermelon rind, and Kumamoto with fermented hot pepper sauce

Hitchcock: cider-cured sardines with poached potato, kale & rutabaga kimchi, and duck egg aioli

Hitchcock: Virginia ham and pork belly speck with radicchio salad

Hitchcock: roasted Galeaux d'eysine squash soup with black kale juice and creme fraiche

Hitchcock: Manila clams with heirloom potatoes, bacon lardons, shallots, sweet cream, and celery

Hitchcock: intermezzo of lemon-rosemary sorbet with fermented chile powder

Hitchcock: Tani Creek roots (mashua, oca, carrots, red sunchokes) with vegetable "demiglace" and panna cotta

Hitchcock: pork loin with farro, delicata squash, and apple-mustard crema

Hitchcock: short rib with lacinato kale, potato, celery root, mushroom cream, and black truffles

Hitchcock: cheeses (Ossau-Iraty with wildflower honey and almonds, Tallegio with candied pecans, Cana de Oveja with quince preserves)

Hitchcock: "Dessert" of sweet potato and yam terrine with pickled scorzonera and cardamom & saffron creme anglaise

Hitchcock: sticky toffee pudding with blackstrap molasses, ginger sorbet, and salted caramel

It’s not often that I have the luxury of an opportunity to “re-do” a trip as a reality check of a previous report. When the Eagle Harbor Inn (speaking of luxury) on Bainbridge Island invited me back to stay exactly one year after my previous visit, I couldn’t resist the chance to check out another of the townhouses and return to restaurants I liked last time, plus explore a couple of new ones.

Bainbridge still holds its charm for me. It’s an enjoyable ferry ride over, making it easy to escape from Seattle, and you can even leave your car behind. The inn’s townhouses have patios to enjoy in warm weather and fireplaces for when it gets cold. With views out to the ferry landing, a stay at Eagle Harbor is both relaxing and romantic. There’s coffee from Pegasus to wake you up in the morning, and if you feel like eating in, recall that you’ll have a kitchen where you can cook fresh eggs from Hitchcock Deli, slice cheese from Town & Country Market, spoon up Boat Street Pickles from Intentional Table, and perhaps pour wine from the Eagle Harbor Wine Company.

Need more stores? Walk up to Winslow Way, where my favorites are the Eagle Harbor Book Company, the Intentional Table (which sells cookbooks, wine and food products, and a carefully curated selection of cooking equipment), and Dana’s Showhouse for its eclectic gift and décor items.

A new addition to Winslow Way is the Bainbridge Island Museum of Art. Admission is free. I enjoyed the “Gayle Bard: A Singular Vision” exhibit, but I’d return anytime as the building is beautiful and still expanding. Meanwhile, a ways from Winslow Way is IslandWood, an educational center for outdoor learning which hosts Mochi-Tsuki each January. I returned again and took in the mesmerizing taiko drumming inside yet another beautiful building.

As for restaurants, I’ve definitely developed my list of favorites. For quick breakfast, I like the simplicity of “toast” at Blackbird Bakery. Also good are the downtowners, pear-anise scones, and Helen’s French rolls. (If you’re visiting Bainbridge on the weekend, perhaps try brunch at Café Nola.) But if you want to hold out for great coffee, go next door to Hitchcock Deli and try out their amazing Bosco machine. The barista will hand-pull an espresso shot and prepare a drink to your liking. The deli remains my recommendation for lunch, with incredible sandwiches, including my favorite: roast beef made with Painted Hills top round, horseradish mayo, caramelized onions, and Swiss cheese.) For a snack to satisfy the sweet tooth, you still can’t go wrong with Mora Iced Creamery.

When it’s time for dinner (and dessert), my top pick remains Hitchcock Restaurant. Last year, chef Brendan McGill was voted The People’s Best New Chef in a Food & Wine magazine national contest. Now he’s a 2014 semifinalist for a James Beard Award as Best Chef Northwest. The ideal way to experience this eclectic restaurant is to pick a price for a tasting menu, then sit back and enjoy all the dishes that showcase pickling, fermenting, preserving, roasting, grilling, and more.

My newest restaurant find, actually courtesy of McGill at Hitchcock, is Via Rosa 11. You’ll need a car (or a cab), but it’s worth the trip. Part market and part restaurant, Via Rosa 11 has an open kitchen and workers who want to please. They offer lots of pastas and sauces that they can prepare in any combination for you to eat on-site. Or, take the raw ingredients to go and turn Eagle Harbor Inn into your home-based restaurant, cooking an easy meal and eating in as part of a relaxing evening on Bainbridge Island.

Click through the gallery above to see photos from all the restaurants mentioned—including every course in my latest tasting menu meal at Hitchcock Restaurant.

A Food Lover’s Guide to a Bainbridge Ferry Ride

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Departing Seattle en route to Bainbridge Island.

Blackbird Bakery: pear anise scones, subtle in flavor.

Blackbird: a sign for the much-heralded "Toast."

Blackbird: the Toast (whole wheat oat bread), buttered and served with homemade jam.

Blackbird: The Downtowner is sort of like a kouign amann, the caramelized vanilla sugar turning this pastry into a sweet, buttery treat.

Looking down at Pegasus Coffee House.

Pegasus: Baked eggs in red chile: eggs baked in housemade red chile sauce and topped with cheese.

Pegasus: Interior, with menu and sourcing.

Fork & Spoon sign.

Fork & Spoon: Bacon & veggie sandwich, served on whole wheat oat bread with Butler Farm greens, shaved sweet onion, and house green goddess dressing. Nice textural contrast between the crispy bacon and creamy avocado.

Outside the Madison Diner.

Madison Diner: The "Wafflewich!"--which is two scrambled eggs with cheddar cheese and two strips of bacon sandwiched between Belgian waffle halves.

Hitchcock Deli's pastrami sandwich on rye with cabbage slaw, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing. Option to get it "piled high" with a half-pound of meat, or New York style with a pound. Served with chips.

Hitchcock Deli: Turkey sandwich on sourdough with lettuce, tomato, red onion, Swiss cheese, mayo, and whole grain mustard (all condiments made in-house).

Hitchcock Deli: Roast beef sandwich on a potato roll with horseradish mayo, caramelized onions (delicious!), and Swiss cheese.

Hitchcock Deli: Macarons. (There's a pastry chef on-site.)

Hitchcock Deli also sells products like fresh eggs, charcuterie, wine, and much more.

Hitchcock Deli: Mmm...meat.

Bon Bon's fudge.

Bon Bon: licorice.

Bon Bon: Interior.

Town & Country Market is the popular place for grocery shopping.

Inside the Intentional Table.

Intentional Table: wines and whimsy.

The exhilaration (and exhaustion) of making mochi at Mochi Tsuki.

Mochi demo at Mochi Tsuki.

Mora Iced Creamery sign.

The menu at Mora.

Green tea ice cream at Mora.

Scooping at Mora.

Mora: A triple scoop of green tea ice cream, raspberry sorbet, and dark chocolate ice cream.

Amuse bouche at Restaurant Marché.

Marché: Salade Niçoise with grilled northwest albacore, haricots vertes, fingerling potatoes, and nicoise olives.

Marché: Parsnip flan (so delicate and delicious) with chervil salad.

Marché: Saturday special of grilled pastured pork loin and rillette-filled raviolo.

Marché: Mussels and fries (made with Kennebec potatoes) with fennel, cream & Pernod, served with aioli.

Hitchcock Restaurant's sign foreshadows the whimsy of the food.

Hitchcock: Baywater Sweet oysters with sauerkraut granita, Shigoku oysters with buttermilk and horseradish foam, and Kumamoto oysters with lemon pearls

Hitchcock: Yam and sweet potato charcuterie with pickled watermelon pith and cardamom crème anglaise.

Hitchcock: Cold-smoked steelhead, squid ink sauce, steelhead caviar, pickled red onion, and parsley.

Hitchcock: Charcuterie sampler of foie torchon, beef tongue-strami, and Basque chorizo with chocolate.

Hitchcock: Red and gold beets with cultured cream, Napa cabbage, and rye toast.

Hitchcock: Marmitako, which is a Basque fish stew with Pacific albacore, giant Pacific octopus, mussels, clams, and sweet heirloom tomatoes.

Hitchcock: Albacore bloodline with elderberry sauce.

Hitchcock: Duck hearts stuffed with Cognac cherries with witloof, treviso, chicory, and Pedro Ximenez sherry.

Hitchcock: Pleasant View Farm Duck Breast with sauerkraut, elderberries, gin, and pickled mushrooms. (It was so good that I went back a couple of nights later to eat it again!)

Hitchcock: Braised beef short ribs with delicata squash, parsnip, and chocolate-chili mojo.

Hitchcock: Ricotta salata with quince jam and rosemary lavash.

Hitchcock: Dessert sampler.

The courtyard at the Eagle Harbor Inn.

Eagle Harbor Inn: Inside a townhome.

Eagle Harbor Inn: A comfortable bed for a food coma.

Back to Seattle after a feeding frenzy on Bainbridge Island.

I’ve often recommended Bainbridge Island to Seattle tourists interested in doing something that’s not-so-Seattle. But Bainbridge is for far more than just tourists. The food scene is so improved that locals will enjoy at least a day-trip via the ferry. Even better is an overnight or two to really explore all the eateries. There’s no need for a car if you just want to wander the downtown area known as Winslow. Steps from the ferry terminal, Winslow has a walkable stretch of street (and adjoining areas) with a number of interesting cafés, bakeries, and restaurants worth a look.

There’s more. On Winslow Way, the Eagle Harbor Book Company will inevitably have food-related books in the window. And with stores like Churchmouse Yarns & Teas (with teas, jams, and shortbreads to go along with knitting supplies), Paraffine (more teas, plus candles), and Salt and Sea (salt and other gourmet food products, as well as vintage and new home furnishings), your food tour can extend to retail shops. Plus there’s a new hot spot called the Intentional Table which will whet your appetite in more ways than one.

Time your visit right, and you can make your own mochi snacks by attending Mochi Tsuki, sponsored annually by the Bainbridge Island Japanese American Community. At this new year celebration, you can watch and participate in mochi-making, sampling some sweet rice treats while getting wowed by a taiko drum performance.

Back to restaurant bites, there are a number of old-school spots in Winslow that will suit those with more conventional palates. But if you’re willing to throw caution to the culinary winds, you’ll want to try an interesting restaurant that’s getting national acclaim for its innovative food. From snacks to sandwiches to full-on suppers, here are my recommendations of places to eat in Bainbridge Island’s Winslow—as well as a romantic place to rest and relax.

Breakfast

In the heart of the Winslow Way shopping district you’ll find Blackbird Bakery, a popular place with the locals. I stopped by this bakery three consecutive days, sampling a Pear Anise Scone, a simple but delightful order of Toast, and then my favorite: a “Downtowner.”

Another breakfast option is Pegasus Coffee House, a local roaster that serves food throughout the day and occasionally live music at night. The Baked P-Egg-asus is a menu mainstay, and I enjoyed a version with red chile. Plus, of course, some pretty good coffee.

Lunch

Fork & Spoon, the sister restaurant to Blackbird, is a fine option for lunch, especially if you indulge in the bakery’s bread. The Bacon & Veggie Sandwich is one I’d recommend for interesting texture and flavor.

For a retro experience, the Madison Diner offers old-fashioned booth and counter seating in a 1948 stainless steel dining car. It’s the kind of place where a “Wafflewich!” will call out to you from the menu.

The best sandwiches of all are at Hitchcock Delicatessen and Charcuterie. I sampled three and found them to be fantastic, especially the Pastrami and the Roast Beef. Interestingly, Hitchcock Deli also served me the best coffee drink of my Bainbridge stay, using their Bosco espresso machine.

Snacks

Bon Bon is a whimsical little candy store with 21 varieties of fudge, including Snickers, Penuchi Nut, and Dark Chocolate with Sea Salt. The store is also packed with licorice, taffy, caramels, and chocolates—and a bunch of nostalgic candies.

For food shopping, Town & Country Market is a fun place to go. It was the island’s first market, and a destination for many islanders today due to a good meat section, a decent deli, a nice selection of cheeses, and much more.

Recently opened is Intentional Table. Serving as a sort of community food center, Intentional Table sells cookbooks, wine and food products, and a carefully curated selection of cooking equipment. You’ll want to keep track of their calendar, as the in-store kitchen offers classes and cooking demonstrations.

Across from Intentional Table on Madrone Lane is the highly acclaimed Mora Iced Creamery, which may be reason enough to make the trip to Bainbridge Island. Owned by a lovely couple from Argentina, Mora makes its own ice cream bases and scoops a wide variety of interesting flavors (such as marron glacé, sabayon, and pink grapefruit), with full invitation to sample.

Dinner

Last year, former Canlis chef Greg Atkinson opened Restaurant Marché, bringing the French countryside to Bainbridge Island. Here you’ll find Onion Soup, Moules Frites, Trout Meunière, and more in a contemporary setting. I especially enjoyed a delicate Parsnip Flan as well as the Salade Niçoise.

By far, my top recommendation in Winslow is Hitchcock Restaurant, where chef Brendan McGill was recently voted The People’s Best New Chef in a Food & Wine magazine national contest. The best way to experience this eclectic restaurant is to pick a price for a tasting menu, then sit back and enjoy all the dishes that showcase pickling, fermenting, preserving, roasting, grilling, and more.

Lodging

Eagle Harbor Inn is “a petit hotel” of five unique rooms and suites plus three townhomes that are built around a landscaped garden courtyard. Deservedly recognized as one of the most romantic places to stay in western Washington, this hotel is ideally situated close to Winslow Way and is the perfect place to call home while on Bainbridge Island. It’s charming and comfortable, with outdoor seating and views of the harbor. If you stay in a townhouse, you’ll have a kitchen where you can cook fresh eggs from Hitchcock Deli, slice cheese from Town & Country Market, spoon up Boat Street Pickles from Intentional Table, and perhaps pour wine from the Eagle Harbor Winery.

Click through the gallery above to see photos from the Eagle Harbor Inn (courtesy of the hotel) and all the restaurants mentioned—including every course in my tasting menu meal at Hitchcock Restaurant.