Tag Archives: Hajime Sato

Seductive Sustainable Seafood: Food Porn from Mashiko

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Shirako (cod milt/sperm) with mentaiko (marinated pollock roe), nori (seaweed), and cucumbers

Kumamoto oysters with ponzu (citrus-based sauce)

Cherrystone clams with grated daikon

Tofu with sockeye roe (different than typical salmon roe) that’s marinated in miso and kasu (sake lees)

Rainbow trout sashimi

Ankimo (monkfish liver)

Ceviche of geoduck and scallop, with Japanese pear

Pacific oysters with olive oil and daikon sprouts

White King salmon tartare with capers, onion, and quail egg

First sushi platter: albacore belly (fatty), striped bass (konbu jime, or kelp-marinated), and sawara/Spanish mackerel)

Tako (octopus) with wakame/seaweed and shichime/seven spice powder

Chowanmushi with matsutake mushrooms

Salmon kasu-jiru: soup made with sake lees

Second sushi platter, this one featuring SweetSpring salmon, trout, sanma/Pacific saury (front row), with ono/wahoo and ebi/shrimp (back row)

Tamago, or egg, is often the test of quality sushi-making. It's also a sweet transition to the end of the meal.

Catfish (which some inevitably compare to unagi/eel due to the tare/sauce) is a sweet finish to the meal.

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During my recent restaurant search for sweet (and sustainable) scallops in Seattle, I mentioned Mashiko. In 2009, Hajime Sato transformed his space into the city’s first fully sustainable sushi bar.

What is sustainable seafood? When I gave Mashiko the Sexy Feast treatment last month, I wrote that I like the David Suzuki Foundation definition, which says it’s “seafood fished or farmed in a manner that can maintain or increase production in the long term, without jeopardizing the health or function of the web of life in our oceans.”

Sustainability calls for traceability and education. And here’s what I like about what Sato is doing. He’s an advocate of the former and a leader of the latter—teaching people about the need to use the right materials, techniques, and approach to ensure a better tomorrow for seafood.

So I highly suggest you sit at the counter at Mashiko and order omakase. Put yourself in Sato’s hands, and you’ll get non-preachy education (and some entertainment) to go along with delicious dishes. At some sushi places, I just want to eat nigiri; at Mashiko, it’s interesting to see what ingredient combinations Sato will serve you—and what he’ll say about them.

Wondering what your sustainable seafood meal will look like? Be a voyeur and check out the slideshow above for pure food porn.

Katsu Burger Conquers the Sandwich World

Paseo, Salumi and many Vietnamese delis selling BBQ pork banh mi: All are superb places for a sandwich in Seattle. Now it’s time to add Katsu Burger to that elite list. Hajime Sato, (sustainable) sushi chef at Mashiko, recently opened this bustling eatery in Georgetown, and I’ve already heard rumors of expansion, perhaps to South Lake Union.

Sato’s burgers are based on tonkatsu, a panko-breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet typically served with shredded cabbage, rice, miso soup, and some Japanese pickles. Both the pork and the cabbage are delicious with a squiggle of sweet and tangy tonkatsu sauce, though I also like my pork with some karashi. (Karashi is spicy Japanese mustard, which I think would be a killer ingredient if introduced to Katsu’s burgers.)

Katsu Burger offers a choice of deep-fried meats for their burgers. While beef and chicken (there’s also tofu) are options, pork is classic for katsu, so I’m a bit surprised that the first, basic burger on the menu is beef—and is called Tokyo Classic. It’s simply the patty with Japanese mayonnaise and tonkatsu sauce on the bun ($6.95), topped (like all the burgers) with shredded cabbage, tomatoes, red onions, and pickles. The menu says meat substitutions are fine, but a newbie might not realize this. In the future, I’ll go with a pork version of the Tokyo Classic—it’s what I recommend to others—but first visit, I got these:

Wabi Wasabi (beef patty, pepper jack, wasabi mayonnaise, and tonkatsu sauce, $7.55)

Ninja Deluxe (pork cutlet, cheddar, bacon, Japanese mayonnaise, and tonkatsu sauce, $8.25)

The beef, batter-fried with juices sealed in, was fun to try, but I much preferred the pork. “We use natural pork loin (no added growth hormones or antibiotics), which is more expensive but definitely worth it,” Sato explained, adding, “We brine and season it to make it tender and tasty.”

Tender and tasty indeed. Pounding the pork contributed to this, and also made the katsu burger quite sexy.

Should you be unable to choose between meats, you can climb all the way up to a Mt. Fuji, featuring a beef patty, pork cutlet, and chicken breast along with ham, bacon, two cheeses, and other fixings ($16.25). There are also choices of sides for the burgers, which you can combine to make meal deals. An Ichi-ban (+$3.15) gets you seasoned fries (either curry or nori-seasoned), one dipping sauce, and a regular drink—which can be upgraded to a shake (+$2.50). I recommend the nori fries and a green tea milkshake for an amazing East-meets-West fast food meal that’s actually made to order.

If you’re really hungry, you can opt for a Ni-ban meal (+$5.15), which adds a side of wasabi coleslaw to your Ichi-ban order. And if you want to go really crazy, you can “Sumo size it!” with Banzai bites (six chicken “tenders”), fries, cole slaw, slaw, two dipping sauces, and a regular drink for an additional $7.95, which likely exceeds the cost of your burger. Now you’re eating like a real American.