Jamie Boudreau’s bar Canon (Twitter, Facebook), now open officially, is the kind of place that will make a boozehound of a certain stripe feel that he or she has died and gone to cocktail heaven, at least between the hours of 5 p.m. and 2 a.m.
Just down the street from Tavern Law, and not too far from the Knee High Stocking Co. or Sun Liquor Distillery, Canon (only the one N in the middle there, despite a cannon being its mark) has some work to do to distinguish itself from neo-speakeasy cocktail emporia, but if there’s anyone who can do it, it’s Boudreau.
High-end bars, in the end, are built on the broad backs of high-end bartenders. Anyone who’s visited a speakeasy-themed bar after the mixologist consultant has left, and turned the drinks over to the 20-something previously manning the taps at the local pub, can verify that there’s a knack to old-school cocktails. Fearsome things come sickly sweet and unbalanced.
Boudreau promises a 100-drink list, which I imagine is just a portion of what he can pour from memory. Canon will be the kind of bar, like Zig Zag, where part of the fun is simply playing bartender roulette; give a hint of what you’re in the mood for, and Boudreau will work his magic. I asked for Fernet, he brought me a drink that tamed the fierce beast with citrus (orange peel). Another drink tasted like Licorice Allsorts. The Last Word wasn’t roulette, just perfect: tart, sweet, astringent, herbal, all on a merry-go-round.
There’s food on the menu as well, and not just the requisite pub grub. The charcuterie and cheese plate is remarkable, pungent and savory. Any more terroir, and you’d swear the cheese just baa’d at you. The pork belly buns–crunchy inside pillows of bun–will make you growl if someone gets too near, so be ready for that.
This isn’t a review–Canon’s too young for that. But Boudreau is not, and he’s got, clearly, big plans. Cocktails range from $10 to $12 generally*, so he’s not undervaluing his services. Try the Aged La Bicyclette (you’ll alarm Boudreau if you don’t drink from the little bottle), and see for yourself what the fuss is about.
*CLARIFICATION from Canon: “We don’t have $10-12 cocktails. We have one $12 cocktail, which is actually 3 cocktails. (the Vermouth Experiment which is a “flight” of Manhattans). All the rest are $10, but that includes tax, so they’re actually $9.”