Tag Archives: Miyabi 45th

Taking a First Bite at Snack/Bar

“Many of us grew up on crappy food, but with fond memories of it. So why not make a better version?”

So says Forrest Brunton (former executive chef for Linda Derschang’s bars and restaurants), when asked his vision of Snack/Bar’s mission. I was invited to stop by his first pop-up, held last weekend at Miyabi 45th. With talk of a possible food truck or brick-and-mortar location, he wants to see how other people react to his play on convenience food, fair food, and bar snacks.

The ideas are interesting. In addition to the evening’s menu items, Brunton bandied about ideas like cotton candy combined with candy corn, and foot-long foie gras-ed corn dogs. His goal is to “make snack food that’s good quality but still affordable.”

It’s hard, and not necessarily fair, to judge the future based on a first night’s effort. I got a sense that the kitchen crew was figuring things out as it went along. My “haute pocket,” for example, looked a little pale and naked, whereas later in the evening others’ were more attractive: browned and topped with black sesame seeds. The food was fun; a couple of items were definite keepers, and a couple were forgettable—one saved only by a serving of foie gras. Here’s a look at the snacks I sampled. It will be interesting to watch the evolution and see the public’s reaction to Snack/Bar. (Like Snack/Bar’s Facebook page to keep posted on future events.)

I enjoyed these Prosciutto Rinds, dusted with freeze-dried prosciutto blended in a Vitamix.

The Duck McNuggets have that disconcerting hot dog-like texture of McDonald’s Chicken McNuggets, but that’s by design, as they contain duck forcemeat. It was fun to have a few sauces. I liked the tangerine sweet and sour sauce over the honey mustard sauce, with the plum BBQ sauce a distant third.

Here’s the Haute Pocket. Good flavor, but while the menu shows a plural number, it’s a bit expensive at $8 for one—even if filled with coq au vin.

The Party Pizza reminded me of the boxed pizza of my childhood. I can’t imagine buying the cheese version (unless, of course, drunk and craving a snack at a bar), but if you have the dough, you can spring for a foie gras upgrade. Now that’s fun!

The Pudding Pop is a play on the Jello-O version, and is essentially pot de crème on a stick. But is it elevated enough?

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Miyabi 45th: Where Soma Makes Soba and So Much More

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An amuse bouche of butternut squash and shrimp soup with brilliant flavor

Spicy miso dip with market fresh vegetables

Smoked salmon and potato with ikura, mayo, nori, and house-cured salmon gravlax

Part of the cheese plate: miso-marinated brie, fermented tofu, and candied spaghetti squash

Agedashi soba tofu (buckwheat tofu and eggplant in bonito broth)

Saba battera (house-cured Washington mackerel, shiso, sushi rice, sesame, and ginger)

A sample of "pork belly and egg"

A sampler of oyster isobe age (tempura-style deep-fried oyster with nori)

Truffle Kinako: cold soba with hot dipping soup of mushrooms and black truffle oil

Natto: bukkake-style soba with fermented soybeans, sprouts, bonito flakes, negi, nori, egg yolk, and sesame seeds

Ginger crème brûlée with ginger ice cream

A look inside Miyabi 45th

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It’s been fun watching the evolution of Mutsuko Soma since the closing of Chez Shea left the chef shopping for new options. She had a (buckwheat) seed of an idea to start serving handmade soba, and saw success in a variety of pop-ups, including the ones I attended at Sushi Kappo Tamura and Miyabi Restaurant in Tukwila.

But her vision extended beyond soba, and in striking up a partnership with Miyabi, she’s bringing a piece of Southcenter north to Wallingford in opening Miyabi 45th. (There’s more information at the restaurant’s Facebook page.) I wrote previously how 45th Street in Wallingford is becoming a bit of a Nihonmachi, but Miyabi 45th brings Japanese food unlike any found in that neighborhood—or in the whole Seattle area. Soma’s menu has Japanese dishes with European influences; it’s fusion that’s accessible without the pretentiousness of a place like Nishino.

Making her soba noodles from scratch, Soma carves out a new noodle niche in Seattle that’s actually rare to find in any U.S. city. Seattle has its share of ramen joints (though only Samurai makes its own noodles) and a fairly new udon restaurant (U:Don), but now we have a chance to try what some say is the most sophisticated of fresh Japanese noodles. I believe soba is best eaten cold, and Miyabi 45th serves seven this way, with dipping sauces that range from the basic bonito broth with negi and wasabi ($9) to fancier ones like kamoseiro ($17)—the signature soup (hot) with duck and leek.

There are two bukkake-style soba bowls: one with natto ($12) and another called “California” ($15) with shrimp tempura, avocado, cucumber, grated daikon, and nori. And then there are seven hot noodles in hot broth, ranging from plain to offerings with oysters, pork belly, and duck breast.

The soba’s super, but you’ll want to sample other parts of the menu, including the snacks, salads, and hot and cold plates which let Soma show off her European flair. Look for dishes like beef tartare with spicy miso (I’ll be working on making this addictive gochujang-infused miso at home), foie saikyo-zuke (marinated fish with Brussels sprouts, sunchokes, and soy balsamic gastrique), and perhaps the most intriguing item on the menu: the cheese plate. It sounds simple, but in addition to a smart collection of quality cheeses, this plate might include intriguing bites like miso-marinated brie, fermented tofu, and candied spaghetti squash—guaranteed to have you reaching for a beer, sake, or an interesting cocktail.

Of course, there are some traditional Japanese dishes, still done with a twist. Saba battera is delicious (three cheers for using Washington mackerel!), matsutake chawanmushi will likely use local mushrooms, and agedashi soba tofu brings Soma’s love for buckwheat back into the mix in a delicate way.

Miyabi 45th is scheduled to officially open this week. My recommendation: Order omakase-style, proposing an amount to spend on chef-picked items and a plate or bowl of soba noodles.