Tag Archives: pioneer square

Getting a Garlicky Grin at Girin

After long lamenting the lack of quality Korean food in Seattle (you’ve had to drive north toward Shoreline and beyond, or south to at least Federal Way, for the good stuff), there’s recent activity in the game of gochujang and garlic in the heart of the city. Chan opened in Pike Place Market several years ago, a restaurant I describe as “a cute little place with little, little dishes.” Just last year, Trove opened in Capitol Hill, giving carnivores a place to “get their grill on.”

And now comes news that Girin is opening on Saturday, rising in rapidly developing Pioneer Square, specifically in the Stadium Place project in the North Lot Development, on the city side of CenturyLink Field. It’s a gorgeous space reminiscent of Momiji in Capitol Hill (not surprising, since it’s the same owner), and here’s the good news: the food at Girin, while modern, is far more aligned with authentic Korean cuisine than Momiji’s was—at least at opening—with authentic Japanese cuisine. Credit Brandon Kirksey (ex-chef at flour + water in San Francisco and Tavolata in Seattle) for quickly learning Korean flavors. I will be curious to see how his cooking develops over time. (This noodle lover will also look forward to trying the kalguksu: Girin’s version featuring hand-cut noodles in kombu broth with clams and cuttlefish.)

Maybe the best news is that unlike Chan and Trove, Girin offers banchan for free. [Edit: It now appears that banchan is free only for ssam plates, and not for noodles, tteokboki, etc.] That said, menu prices run on the high side; I wonder what impact pricing and location will play in Girin’s long-term success. The Pioneer Square renaissance should help, as will the opening of a hotel across the street from the restaurant. While budget-minded Korean food lovers will likely continue to drive far for their fix, I suspect that the young, monied crowd (not a bad target audience, as that’s what Seattle’s becoming) will Uber its way to the stylish Girin to swig makgeolli out of metal bowls and devour plates of meats that run from raw to grilled.

On that note, here’s a look at some sampling I did at last night’s media preview dinner at Girin.

Banchan assortment included the pictured kimchi (nicely flavored), nettles with doenjang and pine nuts (a seasonal offering), and sesame-crusted tofu (delicious!), along with grilled eggplant and dried anchovies with toasted almonds.

Yukhoe (Girin spells it yukhwe): raw beef, pear, pine nuts, and egg yolk. From my experience, yukhoe is usually made from beef strips or chopped/ground beef, and is typically more seasoned, but this was still fantastic.

Haemul pajeon: green onion pancake with seafood. While the outside could have been crispier, the pancake had great interior texture with its slight chewiness.

Gung jung tteokbokki: crispy rice cakes with roasted mushrooms (king trumpet, maitake, and pioppini) and soy glaze. In contrast to the spicy red tteokboki that I found on the streets of Seoul, this “royal court” tteokbokki is more refined, meant to be a lighter dish. It usually comes with beef, but even without the dish was satisfying, as it was full of earthy flavor. I only wish the rice cakes were cooked slightly more; instead of an undercooked chewy texture, they should have a soft, mochi-like chewy texture.

Ssamjang marinated skirt steak was perfectly cooked and full of flavor. This plate (with the leaves and all) runs $28, whereas an upgrade to rib-eye would cost about three times the price.

Charred scallion and ginger sausage was bursting with ginger. The sausage starts to approach soondae texture (a little soft), but without the earthy delights that soondae typically offers.

Persimmon sorbet: This was the most talked-about dish at my table, as it had a slightly satoimo-like, slimy texture that was a little disconcerting to most.

Revelry at Girin.

Tough Guys and Oxtail Chili at Café Nordo’s “Smoked!”

It’s time, once again, for another evening of fine dining and pleasant performance from Café Nordo. This peripatetic food theatre company integrates menu and plot and this time around they frame their agitprop performance in the world of the spaghetti Western with Smoked! (through June 16; tickets). It’s a fitting genre for Terry Podgorski’s often-ripe dialogue; thankfully, the cuisine one encounters is a far cry from the frontier.

For this Old West story, Café Nordo sets up shop in Pioneer Square at The Kitchen, Delicatus’s event space. There’s a Zane Grey feel to the space with lots of rough, unfinished wood, bat wing doors from the foyer, and a bulky bar backed by a long line of identical anonymous bottles of caramel-colored drink. A Palouse-like image is visible above those bottles. In one of the finer touches in this event the rolling hills shift from late afternoon to early evening over the course of the show.

As with all Café Nordo performances Smoked! features a plot that preaches to the choir against the evils of agribusiness. This doesn’t reveal anything new about spaghetti Westerns or agribusiness, but it’s a good time. We come to care about the characters and their fates more than the issues with which they wrestle.

Those characters include Clara (Café Nordo regular Opal Peachey), the saloon keeper who tries to keep her town together and her friends from harm. Peachey is joined by fellow alumni Maximillian Davis and Evan Masher. In the roles of Eli and Travis they give us the sort of vulnerable, simple men who populate this genre to contrast with the Clint Eastwood characters.

That gunslinger for good in is played here by Seattle’s go-to tough-guy actor, Ray Tagavilla. This nameless stranger looking for a drink and a hot bath quickly becomes embroiled with the town boss’s stooges The Advocate and “Mad Dog” Maddie (Ryan Higgins and Kate Hess). These villains are two sides of madness, one cold, controlled, and calculating, the other violent and unstable. The cast of capable actors rounds out with the obligatory sheriff and bar maids and, the most important character, the food itself.

Transitioning from the play to the food is the biggest dramaturgical challenge in Café Nordo shows. Director Erin Brindley and writer Podgorski are getting better at meeting that challenge but they have yet to master it. Where other shows might have a blackout between scenes, at Café Nordo, the audience gets a series of intermissions. During each break, the cast presents a course and its optional cocktail accompaniment (one may alternatively or additionally purchase drinks from a menu). Since the actors serve in character, the show must establish the audience’s role in the plot and a reason for the characters to serve us.

In Smoked! the audience has come to town to see a hanging that our protagonists are determined to stop. They don’t seem to mind our presence or purpose all that much but they don’t have a reason to serve us either. For the first course we are fed because it’s Maddie’s whim and she has a loaded gun. The later reasons are only a little more natural.

Overall the food outshines the acting and text. The third course, a sunflower seed risotto with garlic scape pesto, is the weak link in the cuisine and even that is pretty good. The loose biscuit of sunflower seeds (not risotto, but what else would one call it?) overwhelms the other flavors without obliterating them. The accompanying whiskey sour balances this nicely.

The final two courses and the final two scenes make up for any weaknesses in the rest of the evening. The oxtail chili is more like an oxtail soup that’s more meat than broth. It’s flavorfully spicy and awfully good. The fried corn pudding melts into it. The vegetarian chili is spicier than the meat with prominent celery. Relief from the heat comes in a dark, serious cocktail of rye, Fernet, and orange bitters.

When the shooting’s done (as it must be) tiny skillets appear on the tables as dishes for rhubarb pandowdy. When combined with fennel whipped cream it makes for a dessert that’s mildly sweet accompanied by a mildly bitter fortified tea. It’s a course that’s over too soon no matter how slowly one savors it.

Anastasia Workman provides the show with her reliably fine compositions that meet the genre while maintaining her personality. However the underscoring is a real highlight, notably in the early scenes, and some later flute work. Most of this features Dayton Allemann who is also responsible for the excellent video work.

K.D. Schill’s costuming is hit and miss. Some pieces look lived in and appropriately distressed but most of the costumes look fresh off the shelf including cartridge belts that have never held bullets. Some skirt hems fall awkwardly and there’s a bolero jacket and corset combination that doesn’t really work as worn.

Podgorski’s dialogue is often stiff and overwrought, which could be used to great effect in this setting but Smoked! aims more toward serious theatre than simply a genre spoof. Still he continues to show signs of growth as a writer with some genuinely funny and original scenes and a complete and well-structured plot. Between those laughs, the action of the later scenes, and the fine meal Café Nordo chalks up another accomplishment in their esoteric field.

Zealyst, or How Social Networking Got Its Stripes

I mentioned Nerve Dating‘s arrival in Seattle, so it’s only fair to spotlight homegrown networking-event startup Zealyst, though they would be the first to tell you that they’re not a dating site–in fact right now they find themselves catering equally to the needs of a variety of business clients, helping their employees create and cultivate their professional relationships.

But they do share with Nerve a method for bringing together people who, chances are, will get along famously, and for helping everyone to overcome that initial awkwardness of the first meeting. “We lay the groundwork for serendipity,” is how co-founder Martina Welke likes to put it. How Zealyst does that requires some preliminary investigation into zebra-style stripes, which represent the “zeal” in Zealyst’s name, and also the social glue that connects people.

Just about every startup has a great story, though. What matters is how it works in the wild, so I went to the Zealyst site, inquired about a membership (free, at this point), and waited for an invitation. When that arrived–“Greetings from Zealyst–a new way to mix and mingle for professionals in Seattle”–I filled out a short questionnaire about my interests and who I was hoping to meet, and waited for an invitation to a huddle, which is what Zealyst calls their themed meetups, groups of between 16 and 30, usually right around 20.

Recent huddles have been organized around “adventure” (bringing together extreme sports and travel enthusiasts), “making waves” (non-profit leaders and entrepreneurs), and “eclecticism” (marketers, dancers, and triathletes). Zealyst’s software searches out overlappings of interests in its members, so huddles offer variety, not clones. For an entrepreneurs-only huddle, attendance had to be capped, which is a clue, I think, as to why Zealyst has such potential. More on that later.

My huddle was for influencers, and the day of the meetup at Belltown’s Clever Bottle, I got an email from co-founder Britta telling me that I should look for a “musician/photographer/playwright/puppeteer. Ask him about audience/performer relationships.” Intriguing! So was the Clever Bottle setting, for that matter, since I’m a craft cocktail fan.

As it turned out, I met and spoke with a number of people that night, because if you ask someone if they are a puppeteer and they are not, the next question–“Well, what do you do?”–presents itself automatically. I met software developers, the guy behind Seattle Greendrinks, a therapist, a lawyer, and a blonde woman at the bar who wanted to know what we were all doing there.

Later we broke up into smaller groups, and brainstormed what the Zealysters called HaiClus, haiku descriptions of traits people in the group shared, that we presented to other groups. This isn’t something every huddle does–the games invented are specific to the interests of the huddle members. (Cf. “Where do the games come from?“)

After a brief, animated conversation with my huddle “target,” a few days later I was publishing his review of a play in town. Now that’s an “intentionally brokered match,” which is another way that Zealyst describes their value.

Zealyst founders Holly Robins, Britta Jacobs, and Martina Welke (Photo: Zealyst)

Currently, Zealyst is arranging two to three huddles per week in Seattle from their offices at Pioneer Square’s coworking space, Hub Seattle. (All social networking startups should choose coworking.) Thanks to two angel investors, Britta and Martina are working full-time on Zealyst, and will likely be bringing on their tri-founder, Holly, after another funding round.

They accept members via referrals from existing members, or through their site, but at the moment they’ve got enough of a membership base–and business interest in their “enterprise version”–to keep themselves busy. Right now, their contract work with businesses provides the bulk of their revenue stream. They plan to keep a baseline “personal” version free, but with membership benefits (advanced messaging and calendar features, special invitations) available at a paid premium level.

As for what’s next, partly that depends on who joins. Zealyst orchestrates their huddles, but the themes emerge from their algorithmic data-mining of membership interests. For instance, in Seattle, people who like food also tend to like biking. As people get the hang of it, Martina says, they often go back in and update their profile with more and more specific interests, which in turn generates new potential huddle combinations.

Not that the result feels machine-driven. Britta describes the process as a bit like building sand castles with blocks (of data). She also has a fondness for “puns and space jokes,” and injects playful tone into your Zealyst emails, to help take the social anxiety edge off. (No, you can’t bring a wingperson–see the Code of Conduct.)

In three weeks, fingers crossed, they’ll be rolling out a new site. Further developments will involve hiring huddle hosts (initially, the huddles were proposed to be self-organizing, but people want a host to welcome them), and at some point, rolling Zealyst out to new cities full of people bored with their TiVo.

The notion that “today’s professionals” want to outsource their social lives actually has little to do with today. As long as there have been professionals, they have demanded support services for the social side of life: partly because of the time constraints of their career, but also because many are not good at–let’s be clear–socializing. In earlier days, people ran salons that would have been hard to distinguish from a Zealyst huddle, though they depended solely on a hostess’s list of acquaintances and her intuitive people-matching ability.

Zealyst transmogrifies the salon, making it more fluid and adaptable, but the impulse is the same: to help introduce people who “should” know each other, and to create social events that offer the serendipity, spontaneity, and discovery needed to forge social bonds, so people stay connected.

It’s not just about handing someone a business card, but about “joining up” for a vibrant social life. Zealyst’s popularity with entrepreneurs, I think, argues for a growing demand out there, as a lot of macro-scale changes to professional life diminish the opportunities for relationships to arise out of the movements of daily life. (I’m convinced, and I say this as someone who feels ill at ease in the typical business-networking group, and who tells himself that “dating” isn’t something that serious people do, or in my case, do well at all.) We’ll just have to see where this castle can go.

Seattle: The Game Gives An Excuse to Tour Pioneer Square

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Pioneer Square knows garbage. (All photos by Peter Majerle.)

Grab your best buds and go on a smartphone scavenger hunt! Live together, die alone.

We ended up at a bass shop, via a clue about a store that prefers the number four to six.

The owner of this retro sports shop is from Brooklyn, so he knows what he's talking about.

Your choice of lids.

Of course, it's helpful if the establishments on the scavenger hunt are actually open. This means you, Globe Books.

Ready for shots? Not till we're done with the scavenger hunt!

We ended up in a shop with a glassblowing studio to find a kiln named after a dead friend.

Check out that classic Pioneer Square architecture.

The charm of a Pioneer Square alleyway.

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Sometimes it’s fun to be a tourist in your own town. Or sometimes you have no choice, like when you end up playing host to your aunt and uncle from Tuscaloosa. Thankfully, there’s Stray Boots, a mobile tech firm that has developed interactive scavenger hunts using smartphones as “tour guides.” Their games already exist in New York, Las Vegas, LA, San Francisco, Philly, Boston, and Washington DC, and they have several other editions on the way, including Portland. And now there’s Seattle: The Game.

You’ve got three choices of local scavenger hunts: the Pike Place Market tour, the Pioneer Square tour, and the Seattle Art Museum Tour, though for the latter, a separate admission to the museum is required. Each tour takes about two to three hours to complete.

I tried out the Pioneer Square version a couple weekends ago with a group of friends. Basically, you receive challenges and clues by text message, explore the area to find the answers, and learn fun facts about the locations along the way. It’s edutainment! It’s also supereasy: there’s an activation code sent via email, and whenever you’re ready to play, just text that code, and then your phone will do the rest.

There’s riddles, puzzles, photo opps, and trivia questions as you go along the tour route, and your team gets points for every question you answer correctly, so you can compete against another group. The tour takes you places you normally wouldn’t go, like the nautical-themed store Cuttysark, and the great retro sports shop Ebbets Field Flannels. It also made me actually pay attention to the totem poles.

The Game is not quite perfect. My team couldn’t ever find the Occidental Park photo booth that doubles as an art gallery called Gallery 206. Does anyone know if that’s even still there? And the Ask a Seattleite challenge just didn’t work: we had two Seattleites in our group and three 10+ year citizens, and still none of us knew the name for the hotel that was originally at the site of the Sinking Ship parking garage on Yesler. (That’s the Seattle Hotel.) Everyone else walking around were clearly tourists, and a text message telling us to go into the Merchant’s Cafe to harass strangers to help with a smartphone scavenger hunt is just not going to happen. Do you know what city this is?

Licata, Clark, O’Brien Say Keep Pioneer Square People-Sized

(Photo: MvB)

You’d think that, with Pioneer Square being the state’s first national historic district, Seattle wouldn’t have to keep fighting the preservation vs. development fight all over again. I mean, if you were new here, you might think that.

This Monday, April 25, the Seattle City Council will be voting on Council Bill 117140, to amend the zoning for South Downtown including Pioneer Square. The council has a committee that considers height limits, before forwarding bills to the full council, and it split 2-to-2 on a vote for a lower level of building heights in the Pioneer Square Historic District, as recommended by the Department of Planning and Development.

Council members Sally Clark and Mike O’Brien favored the DPD recommendations, while Sally Bagshaw and Tim Burgess can’t get high enough. Clark and O’Brien needed a majority, so the Pioneer Square rezone marches on. The Council’s Nick Licata explains that heights “could go up to 140 ft. in some instances, whereas the current height of most of the buildings there is between 20 and 50 feet.”

What’s in all about, Alfie? Here are dueling op-eds at Publicola on the subject: Cary Moon, carrying the preservationist’s shield, and Anne Fennessy and Jen Kelly, talking up development’s sword.

The argument here, as it has played out in other parts of the city as well, revolves around the amount of money that builders can make by adding extra stories. Developers, in fact, would like 180-foot-tall buildings. But should Pioneer Square look like Belltown?

To that point, argues Licata, the Pioneer Square Preservation Board spent the last four years working with the DPD to settle on suitable height limits: in this case, the proposed maximum height of 120 feet, if developers use an incentive zoning program. “130 and 140 foot heights could eventually risk the removal of the District from the National Register of Historic Places,” cautions Licata, before turning to the economic facts on the ground:

Other factors, such as market demand, are much more critical.  For example, the Pike/Pine neighborhood just east of downtown is experiencing a lot of multifamily housing development with height limits of 65 to 75 feet.

One thing Seattle is not short on at the moment is condominiums. As the recession slowly loosens its grip, apartment projects are starting to take off again. But developers are remarkable resistant to learning the boom-bust lesson; they nearly always prefer their financial incentives on steroids. Some strike it rich, some go bankrupt, and some end up tearing down a 10-year-old building. That last is historic, in its way, but the entire process has little to add to a historic district.