Tag Archives: steak

Raising the Steaks for Carnivorous Dining

This hole-in-the-wall noodle lover has had an interesting and unusual opportunity to eat at three steakhouses this summer. For those yet to partake in steak at an upscale establishment, you’re usually paying for higher quality meats, fine quality service, and typically big portions. I like to call it fine dining Flintstones-style.

While two of my experiences were local, one was completely across the country, at a semi-private dining experience for my dad’s 90th birthday. If judging strictly based on the wow factor of the beef, my Bone-In Aged Prime Rib-Eye Steak at Abe & Louie’s in Boca Raton (there’s another in Boston) was the winner. This 24-ounce cut was full of flavor, fat melting into muscle meat into my mouth.

This is not to say that my local steaks were bad. At Daniel’s Broiler, a local mini-chain, I enjoyed Beef Wellington, coated with pâté and cooked in puff pastry. Slicing it revealed a perfectly cooked, pink-in-the-middle tenderloin. The Beef Wellington is on Daniel’s private dining.

For Seattleites, the most accessible of the three steaks, therefore, is at The Capital Grille. This national chain dry-ages its beef locally, in a little “locker-room” below the restaurant. My partner and I had a recent opportunity to dine there, and in a bit of a role reversal, she ordered the Bone-In Kona Crusted Dry Aged Sirloin, leaving me to try the Filet Mignon. The Filet was tender, but bone-in is the way to go, the coffee contributing its depth of earthy flavor and some shallot butter sauce adding to the richness.

If these photos have raised the steaks for your desire to cave into carnivorous ways, you might want to take advantage of Capital Grille’s “Generous Pour” event, running through September 2. For $25, you can sample nine wines specially chosen by Capital Grille’s master sommelier, taking you from an aperitif to a dessert pairing. While sadly there aren’t any Washington state (or even Oregon) wines represented, this is an excellent opportunity to learn about a variety of intriguing wines and how they pair with your steaks—and starters, salads, and sweets.

The Metropolitan Grill Hearts Australian Wagyu Beef

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Mmmmmmmeat! (All photos MvB)

Nice and juicy

Metropolitan Grill Executive Chef Eric Hellner

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The Metropolitan Grill already serves some of the finest beef Executive Chef Eric Hellner can get his hands on, USDA prime from Nebraska and American Wagyu from Snake River Farms, and last month, they added another fine filet to the roster: Australian Wagyu beef from Mayura Station. With Japanese exports of beef on hold since April 2010, this is the highest quality Wagyu currently available in the U.S, and the Met gets it FedExed overnight.

Mayura Station, located on South Australia’s Limestone Coast, is known for keeping it real, as their original herd was purchased directly from a famous Japanese breeder, giving them the proper pedigree. They’re cagey about revealing all their techniques, but Mayura Station feeds their cows grain for a minimum of 500 days, as well as occasionally giving their cattle beer, which is a Japanese tradition.

So what makes this meat so special? Wagyu beef is heavily marbled with fat…in a good way. The ratio of monounsaturated fat to saturated fats is 2:1, and the monounsaturated fats in Wagyu beef have high levels of both omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. So it doesn’t count as steak, right? It’s practically fish! At least that’s what you can tell yourself (and your doctor).

As to the taste: Chef Hellner likes to describe the texture of the beef as “silky.” And he’s right. The Mayura Station Wagyu is a soft, rich beef, buttery with an earthy finish. Because the marbled fat has a lower melting point, the Met takes care in their technique, by first searing the beef and then slowly raising the temperature. The result is a filet that is moist and pink but not bloody, as the preparation helps to keep the juice and fat in the meat, rather than all over your plate.

Mayura Station Wagyu is only available at four other restaurants in the country (Cut in Las Vegas and Los Angeles, as well as the Las Vegas Wynn and Encore resorts), and they only export one thousand pounds a month. It’s exclusive, so it ain’t cheap: a five-ounce filet is available at the Met for $85. The Met also serves the Wagyu as a carpaccio, which is a little cheaper and more likely to be shared.

So for this Valentine’s day, why not celebrate by putting a big piece of meat in the mouth of your beloved? The Met still has a few tables available, if you don’t mind an early or late dinner.