Tag Archives: victoria

Victoria: A Third Time for Feasting on Food

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French toast at Willie's Bakery

Inside Willie's Bakery

Willie's Bakery from the street...since 1887

A selection of salami at Choux Choux Charcuterie

Sampler platters at Choux Choux (the pate is amazing)

Some of the cheese at Hilary's Fine Cheeses

Inside Hilary's

The classic look of The Dutch Bakery & Coffee Shop

Vanilla slices at The Dutch Bakery

Dollar rolls at The Dutch Bakery

Tamarind ice cream (made with coconut milk) and cardamom macarons (big!) from Cold Comfort

The Cold Comfort car at the farmers market

A showcase full of smoked albacore tuna sandwiches at Fol Epi

A closer look at Fol Epi's smoked albacore tuna sandwich

AURA's smoked albacore tuna sandwich

A closer look at AURA's tuna sandwich

The line at Red Fish Blue Fish, where you can easily make friends while waiting

Red Fish Blue Fish's grilled Qualicum Bay scallop burger (with golden shallot aioli, tartar sauce, tempura dill pickle, lemon-pickled onions, and romaine hearts)

AURA's calamari (togarashi-spiced)

A sampling of soups at AURA

AURA's sablefish

Dessert trio at AURA

Daytime view at the Inn at Laurel Point

View at sundown

Dry ribs (deep-fried nuggets of pork belly with star anise salt and black pepper) at The Black Hat

The Black Hat's grilled salad (with roasted red peppers, roasted almonds, pickled red onions, Manchego cheese, and Romesco vinaigrette)

Chef's sampling of fried chicken livers at The Black Hat

Regretfully, I've forgotten what this dish was at The Black Hat...might have been lamb on succotash

More at The Black Hat: duck with beans, braised daikon radish, house Sriracha, and duck spring roll with hoisin sauce

At Veneto, you can "spin the wheel" and have the bartender make a drink based on your preferences (here's a "bruschetta" with whiskey, basil, and balsamic vinegar)

Veneto is a "tapa lounge" where you can also get your desserts in small portions, like this self-chosen trio

Emu pate from Amuse on the Vineyard at Feast of Fields

Marina Restaurant doing an old-fashioned crab boil at Feast of Fields

Victoria has gone from being “one time only” to a place I can’t get enough of—for food. You don’t need a car, so Victoria’s easy to reach via Victoria Clipper or Kenmore Air. Once there, go beyond the tourist spots and you’ll discover, as I have, some pretty impressive eating options. Adding to my reports from 2010 and 2011, here are some finds from my visit earlier this year.

Local Food Tour

For those who’d like a local to provide culinary highlights of Victoria (or other parts of Vancouver Island), take a look at the Travel with Taste tours. Kathy McAree offers a wide variety of tours, and can customize more to cater to your particular group’s needs. I joined on a modified Urban Culinary Walking Tour that started at Willie’s Bakery and continued to Choux Choux Charcuterie, Hilary’s Fine Cheeses, and the Dutch Bakery & Coffee Shop.

At each stop, you get a look inside, information about the establishment (often from the owner or one of the workers), and a chance to sample some of the offerings. McAree is passionate about the culinary world, and in addition to providing an entertaining experience, she can make further suggestions of eateries to try—as when she steered me to a local farmers market to find the Cold Comfort ice cream cart.

A Tale of Two Tuna Sandwiches, Plus a Potential for a Third

My first two reports about Victoria tell the tale of my love for Fol Epi, and specifically the smoked albacore tuna sandwich sold there. One of my favorite sandwiches in the world, it’s a must-have each trip I make to Vancouver Island.

While dining at AURA (see below), I learned that the restaurant has its own version of the tuna sandwich, which turned out to be a respectable competitor. During my Travel with Taste tour, McAree mentioned that Finest at Sea is a major supplier of the smoked albacore tuna and other seafood products in town. Their little seafood market, in walking distance of AURA, is worth a visit.

And after unsuccessful attempts in previous trips, I finally made it to Red Fish Blue Fish. The lines are long, but eventually I made it to the front window, with a tough task of ordering just one item. The top recommendation was the BBQ scallop burger, which was delicious. Next time, though, I just might just try the cold smoked tuna sandwich to see how it stacks up to Fol Epi’s.

Two Dinners, a Feast, and a Place to Relax and Sleep

As with a previous visit to Victoria, I stayed at the magnificent Inn at Laurel Point. This contemporary hotel has gorgeous harbor views. I loved sitting out on the balcony and watching the boats and seaplanes on the water.

This was my first chance to eat an enjoyable dinner at the aforementioned AURA, where the food was a welcome distraction from the water views.  The next night, I went to The Black Hat for a rather meaty (and delicious) meal, followed by a short walk (everything’s in easy range in central Victoria) to delight in a custom drink and dessert at Veneto.

Time your trip right, and you can visit Victoria during the annual Feast of Fields event. This benefit, which supports farmers and food producers throughout British Columbia, features some of the best restaurants, breweries, wineries, and producers in the area. This year’s highlights included an “interactive” crab boil, pizza production all afternoon, emu pate, wakame spaghetti, and zany black pepper raspberry s’more macarons for dessert. You can see some of the best bites of this year’s event here. The day in the field will likely leave you full, with no need for dinner—though there’s always room for another tuna sandwich.

See the slideshow above for all the food photos from Victoria.

The B.C. in Victoria, B.C., Stands for Bike Canada

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The Selkirk Trestle in Victoria, B.C. (Photo: MvB)

The view of the harbor, looking toward Victoria, B.C. (Photo: MvB)

Sometimes a Victoria bike trail feels like you're just outside Woodinville. (Photo: MvB)

If you want to tie up your bike, a kayak rental is also easy. (Photo: MvB)

Victoria, B.C. (Photo: MvB)

There are even more quaint ways of getting around, of course. These hopscotch all over and depart from downtown Victoria's harbor.(Photo: MvB)

On a clear day, you can see...I don't know...Port Angeles? What's over there? (Photo: MvB)

View from the rear of the Victoria Clipper IV (Photo: MvB)

Sunset on the San Juan islands (Photo: MvB)

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The SunBreak loves Victoria. There, we said it. Big sigh, batted eyelashes. Jay has been eating and drinking his way around: “A Voracious Journey to Victoria” and “Six Letters Spell Sensuality in Victoria,” and today we’re here to tell you how to do that while still getting those compliments on your toned calves.

Bicycling Victoria is the hot new tourist craze, and you don’t have to take our word for it, it’s right there in the Seattle Times, our local paper of record. Victoria is multi-modal, let’s be clear. You can be a hop-on on a bus, you can take those pint-sized “harbour ferry” tours, you can go by kayak, you can scooter past it all. You could spend the whole day on foot.

But a bicycle lets you cover a great deal of ground at a pace that’s still relaxing. You get to chat up locals when you get lost, and you can pull over to explore a side trail without people honking at you. It is $20 to bring your own bicycle on board the Victoria Clipper (space is at a premium) which makes Victoria’s bike rental rates very reasonable.

They average about $28 per day, and if the weather’s inviting, the selection of sizes may get picked over by midday. Luckily there are a few different options: CycleTreks (1000 Wharf Street), Cycle B.C. (685 Humboldt Street), Coastal Cycles (off the Galloping Goose Trail, 1-1610 Island Hwy), and Selkirk Station (also off the Goose, 80 Regatta Landing, kayak rentals, too). Cheapest are the used-bike anarcho-syndicalists, Recyclistas (25 Crease Ave), at $10 per day. Sports Rent (1950 Government Street) rents everything.

If you want to be absolutely sure, call ahead to reserve. Note also that Victoria requires you to wear a helmet on a bicycle. Rental places will throw helmets in, but if you’re finicky about your noggin, bring your own. If you have time, you can send off for four bike maps for just $10 from the Greater Victoria Cycling Coalition. Most rental shops will have a tourist-style sheet that will inevitably lead you astray by leaving out streets.

Your four basic options are these: The Seaside touring route, where you follow mostly quiet roads along the water (you’ll be tempted to take that beachside multi-use path, but it’s for foot traffic, no bikes), the Galloping Goose (which forks off into the Lochside Trail) and the Interurban Trail. (Here’s a pdf of all of them.)

Galloping Goose is the longest, at 55 kilometers, or as we say here in the colonies, 34 miles. If you bike the whole route, you might want to stay overnight. For a good portion as you’re on the outskirts of Victoria, you ride along a busy highway, which is not that pleasant, but the views pick up at Portage Inlet.

The Lochside Trail, from Victoria to Swartz Bay, is 18 miles (29 km). You pass Swan Lake and a nature preserve (the trail leading in is a foot path only) fairly quickly. About seven miles in is Cordova Bay beach, on the ocean, which makes for fun out-and-back that still leaves you time to relax in Victoria.

The full Seaside route is 24 miles (40km), and is the most immediately scenic, ranging from beaches and expanses of ocean and sky to clusters of cottages and woods. It has a few hills (and a Mount Doug, if you care to summit), and it’s a fun half-day outing that, because it’s a loop, lands you right back in town.

You can’t mention biking without pointing out watering holes, and Victoria is happily well-provisioned on the microbrewery front. Spinnaker‘s is a gastro brewpub, which means that if you’re a sweaty cyclist, they will try to steer you upstairs to the taproom. They have a stout you should try. If you like that, they also advise you to try the Keepers Stout from Lighthouse Brewing Co. Not far from each other are Swan’s and Canoe. If you’re serious about pubcrawling, the Clipper people have a map of 21 establishments (pdf) you can check off.