Recent Stories This Year in Food

As skeptical as I was about going on a food-related trip to Whistler, I was even more skeptical about making a similar trip to Vancouver Island. I’d been to both places about fifteen years ago, but I figured that Whistler had probably evolved more. The Olympics were there, foreigners hung out there on an ongoing basis, and you could drive there from Vancouver. It’s part of Canada, whereas Victoria is, what, part of England? I always told inquirers that it’s a place you only need to see once. Too prim-and-proper. See the Gardens, enjoy the buskers, maybe have tea…but bring some cartons of Chinese food from Vancouver if you want something good to eat.

And then, recently, I got gifted a bottle of balsamic vinegar from Venturi-Shultze, and told that Vancouver Island is a bounty of good food. One sip of the vinegar, and I was already making plans to give Victoria and environs another chance.

And am I glad I did!It’s an easy trip from Seattle. My partner and I planned on the Victoria Clipper outbound and then a return via a Kenmore Air seaplane in order to experience the trip both ways. Three hours on the boat gave me time to review our itinerary, as the eating would begin almost immediately upon arrival. It was a majestic entry into the harbor, and then just a quick (five-minutes or so) walk to the Inn at Laurel Point, our home-away-from-home in Victoria.... (more)

[UPDATE: Giveaway is over.] "Due to the large volume of visitors we are experiencing--since our "World's Best" Mac & Cheese became a favorite of a certain TV talkshow diva--we are currently offering a limited version of our website," explains Beechershandmadecheese.com. 

Turns out the "World's Best" Mac & Cheese from Beecher's is a claim Oprah might stand behind. To celebrate the sudden fame, Beecher's is giving away--that's free, folks!--hot dishes of mac & cheese until close of business (6 p.m.) today, November 19. You have three locations to choose from: their Pike Place store, Pasta & Co. at University Village, and Bennett's Pure Food Bistro on Mercer Island.

'Scuse us. Gotta run.

I've been on a bit of a burger binge lately.

Part of the reason: USA Today asked me to pick a best (though not necessarily the best) burger in Washington for a national feature. So I ate a few from around the state, and even sampled what turned out to be the best in our adjoining state of Idaho, and you can find my pick here.

In the midst of this, Kidd Valley asked me to judge their 35th Anniversary Burger Battle. It was a fun event, featuring six local firefighters serving up their specialties in a friendly competition to benefit the Muscular Dystrophy Association.

Our judging panel picked a clear winner: Mike "Suey" Sulak's Blazin' Flashover Bacon Burger.... (more)

So many in Seattle are atwitter with Canlis' menu contest. And rightly so. In hiding 50 menus in 50 days (Sundays off, generally), Canlis is providing 50 lucky Seattleites the chance to dine (with a guest) at 1950s prices. It's all part of Canlis' 60th birthday celebration.

The contest is brilliant on many levels. First, the clue-giving is a fantastic use of social media. Second, it's intellectually stimulating, as the answers often emerge from riddles, plays-on-words, etc. Related to that, the contest connects Canlis and all the contestants (and that's anyone) to Seattle, teaching a lot about regional history in the process. And finally, it's hip, bringing a new generation of fans into the Canlis fold.

For those not fortunate enough to find a menu, I always say that you can enjoy the splendor of Canlis by enjoying a bite (maybe teriyaki, or dessert and a drink?) in the bar area. Better yet, instead of a $2.75 salmon steak or $3.85 filet mignon from that 1950s menu, see how Canlis has changed by checking out the chef's tasting menu. Here's what Jason Franey is serving up this fall:

Amuse Bouche: Sunchoke soup and white truffle ice cream (this connected to the amazing white truffle menu that I enjoyed the same night)... (more)

Thanks for the memories, BlogsGivingers! Our annual social hour and fundraiser for Northwest Harvest was last night at the Bourbon Bar at Columbia City Theater, and we raised $150 and a big box of food (mostly canned, which I discovered makes hauling it to the car quite a workout).

Co-sponsoring blogerati included Amber from Rainier Valley Post, Maia from SouthendSeattle, Justin from Capitol Hill Seattle (our Tutta Bella pizza provider, everyone thank CHS!) and Allecia, Amy, and Morgen from Seattlest--along with guests Curt Milton of Eastlake Ave., Tri Nguyen of the late, lamented Columbia City Blog, John Jensen from Seattle Transit Blog, and ECB from PubliCola. Oh, and Danae, all the way from Lake City Live, ladies and gentlemen!

Newcastle Brown Ale refreshed us while we were out "walking the dog"--note professional-level product placement in the photos, beer promoters!--and the people at Bourbon Bar fulfilled every heart's desire (largely, for bourbon cocktails, crab dip, and pulled pork nachos). If you missed it, don't despair. BlogsGiving will return next year...possibly north of the Cut. 

Our annual social hour and fundraiser for Northwest Harvest is tonight, November 15! Visit our Facebook invitation page for more details and to RSVP.

Join the writers and readers of such blogs as Rainier Valley Post, SouthendSeattle, CD News, Capitol Hill Seattle, and Seattlest for some fun with YouTube, a beer tasting courtesy of Newcastle Brown Ale*, and a limited supply of complimentary pizza from Tutta Bella.

This year we're going to be meeting up in Columbia City, at the Bourbon Bar (4916 Rainier Ave. S.) from 6 to 9 p.m.

If pizza and beer isn't enough, know that the Bourbon Bar also has a new bar menu of small plates and, you guessed it, a wonderful selection of bourbon.

We're also hooking the bar's TV up to the internets for the evening, so help us build a YouTube playlist by posting your favorite(s) in the comments.

All of this for just a $5 suggested donation at the door, or two cans of food. See you there!

*Please enjoy the one and only Newcastle Brown Ale responsibly.

Too much time away from Seattle means an admitted lack of local reviews, but here’s a look at some “competition.”

I’m in Philadelphia, where Jose Garces is gathering together a little empire of restaurants. I went to two of his seven properties: Chifa and Distrito.

Recall that Garces took on Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi of Joule in his debut battle on Iron Chef America. Like others in attendance at the viewing party, I thought Garces got gifted a victory, as his food look less inspired than that of the Joule chefs.

My visit to Chifa confirmed my doubts. This Asian-influenced tapas place features Peruvian and Cantonese flavors, but lacked the boldness I was seeking and enjoy at Joule. For example, the highly acclaimed pork belly bao buns suffered a bit, primarily because the buns overpowered the meat. Maybe I just prefer a simpler bun, like Momofuku’s or the one I had at Joule, in a dish they did for me that’s featured in the current issue of Edible Seattle.

The crab empanada and marlin tataki were uninspiring. I did find the chicharrones with crispy pork and green curried lentils interesting, and my favorite dish was the Chinese water spinach with ginger-soy glazed snap peas, enoki mushrooms, and fennel—perhaps the “purest” dish of the bunch with less force of fusion.... (more)

The first thing about La Bête is to be clear where on Capitol Hill it actually is. It turns out to be down around where The Saint is, but around the corner on Bellevue. It's a decent-sized spot, able to crowd in a good amount of brunch-goers; brunch on the weekend begins at 10:30 a.m. Coffee comes in French presses. The food and drinks are the work of Tyler Moritz and Aleks Dimitrijevic, with cocktails and wines by the glass generally ranging from $8-$10. We were looking for a brunch spot suitable for an editorial meeting, and this fit the bill nicely--it was never too loud, even when full. Read on for thumbnail reviews of brunch options.... (more)

While some are supping on sushi in Seattle, I'm down in the Napa Valley attending the Culinary Institute of America's Worlds of Flavor International Conference & Festival, with this year's theme being "Japan: Flavors of Culture."

And while I was especially amused seeing Masaharu Morimoto and Hiroyuki Sakai yukking it up, I must say there's an incredible number of amazing chefs, Iron and otherwise, doing presentations and preparing food. Many of the masters from Japan are here, along with the likes of Thomas Keller, David Chang, and Chris Cosentino from the States.

Yoshiki Tsuji, president of the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka, gave the opening keynote. His look at traditions and innovations of Japanese cuisine was jam-packed with facts, philosophy, and a bit of fun. For example, while Japan is roughly the same size as California, the country has 50 percent more coastline than our entire country, which helps explain (along with other factors he outlined) the popularity of seafood there.... (more)

South Lake Union is the scene of Chef Christine Keff’s relocated Flying Fish restaurant. I went in for a tasting menu experience, expecting a series of small bites, but was blown away by a big, welcoming platter of crabs. Keff explained that she loves to serve such platters (which can also be sizzling Gulf shrimp by the half-pound or a whole fried rockfish) because they immediately break down barriers at the table. She smiled saying that she enjoys seeing business workers or people on dates “getting their hands in the food, getting dirty.”

Two of us dug into two pounds of salt and pepper Dungeness crabs, accompanied by comforting sesame noodles and fresh, crunchy bites of carrot daikon salad. It was indeed fun to crack open the crab to extract the succulent morsels of meat within. There’s a nuoc mam-like dipping sauce, but we agreed with those who prompted Keff’s comment that some people find the sauce overpowering. The salt and pepper (with slight bite, leading me to believe that it’s Szechuan pepper) provided the perfect amount of seasoning for the sweet crab.... (more)

Here’s an exciting book announcement, if you’ll pardon my pride in being one of the editors: The Fearless Critic Seattle Restaurant Guide is now published and has hit the shelves of bookstores in the Seattle area.

Through the efforts of a carefully chosen panel of restaurant reviewers, the book offers brutally honest ratings and reviews of 250 Seattle-area restaurants covering a wide spectrum—from Canton Noodle House to Canlis, from Hiroki to the Herbfarm.

Readers will find a variety of lists with numerical ratings, including top picks based on food and feel. Critiques are honest and discriminating. For example, in the food category, only 16 restaurants rate 9 or higher on a 10-point scale, with Anchovies & Olives, Cafe Juanita, Crush, Joule, and Spinasse among those at the top.

Other lists rate restaurants on their beverage programs, while readers will also appreciate lists based on cuisine and location, as well as special features such as vegetarian-friendly, kid-friendly, and late-night hours.

What I especially like about the book are the full-page reviews of each restaurant. They’re easily readable, and often irreverent, but always honest. Going beyond the PR and the polish, these reviews reflect an insider perspective that Robin Goldstein, Fearless Critic’s founder and editor-in-chief, describes as “Just between you and me, putting aside its reputation, what do you really think of this restaurant?”... (more)

I was delighted to be invited to Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort in Leavenworth to experience the Taste of the Valley package this past summer. What a wonderful way to close the loop on a culinary/agri-tourism trip that had already taken me to Portland, Yakima Valley, SageCliffe's Cave B Inn, and the Wenatchee Valley.

A Thursday arrival meant a chance to check out the Leavenworth Farmers Community Market. Friday featured an heirloom apple butter cooking class at Cashmere Cider Mill, and Saturday a cheese-making class at Alpine Lakes Sheep Cheese.

But, best of all, this was an opportunity for rest and relaxation at the resort. Sure, I made a couple of excursions into the town of Leavenworth, but the Bavarian Disneyland feel didn't fit this food writer's mood. There are a couple of culinary discoveries to be made in town, but mostly it's the usual tourist-type shops selling tacky postcards and restaurants featuring traditional German fare.

Better was taking breakfast and dinner at Sleeping Lady's Kingfisher Dining Lodge, where Chef Ken MacDonald utilizes fresh, local ingredients--many from the lodge's organic garden. (You can take a guided tour of the garden on Saturdays to see the fruits, vegetables, herbs, and flowers that get used in the kitchen.)... (more)

You're looking at the dish that won Best of Show at the second annual Lamb Jam Seattle. Chef Mark Bodinet (pictured, right) of Copperleaf Restaurant at Cedarbrook Lodge took the overall prize and also a win in the "Shoulder" category for his grilled lamb shoulder confit with preserved huckleberries and creamy parsnips. As the winner, he will now go on to compete against the winners of the Boston, Washington, D.C., and San Francisco events.

Everyone who attended Lamb Jam was a winner, getting to sample 21 lamb dishes with 21 paired wines for a reasonable entry fee of $45. The event also featured some fine music from the band FOUR.

I was in the judges' room, listening to "Layla" (and other assorted love and non-love songs) while rating lamb dishes which came to the room every six minutes for over two hours. (As did the wines to match; our winner was Buty's 2007 Columbia Rediviva, which was paired with the overall winning dish.) Rating by presentation, creativity, and taste, we chose the following winners (it's interesting to note that they're all from hotel-based restaurants) in addition to the Shoulder category:... (more)

Elliott's Oyster House is currently celebrating their 18th annual Ocean Harvest Festival, which culminates in the Oyster New Year Bash on November 6th. It looks to be completely over the top (oyster luge and most beautiful oyster contest, anyone?) in a delicious way, with thirty varieties of local oysters shucked to order, fifty wines and microbrews, and tons of other seafood to sample.  Tickets are $95 per person, or $125 if you want to go VIP and hit the oysters (and champagne) early.

But first, tonight is the Slurp Up, a mini version of the New Year's party. There's still tons of briny, supple oysters on the half shell, as well as other seafood appetizers, wine, and beer. Those tickets will only run you $35 for all the shellfish you can eat.

With so much attention on new restaurant openings in Seattle and Bellevue, I find myself focusing on old favorites that, for some, have fallen off the radar.

One of my favorites is just a bit out of the Seattle/Bellevue scene: Trellis, located in Kirkland's Heathman Hotel. When I learned that Trellis' Chef Brian Scheehser would be joining Chef Richard Blais and Host Chef James Hassell (of the Columbia Tower Club) for the return of the Celebrity Chef Tour to benefit the James Beard Foundation, I knew I had to attend.

Scheehser maintains a farm just a few miles from the restaurant, so I always advise to pay special attention to the plates that have produce--and there are many. At the Celebrity Chef Tour dinner earlier this month, my favorite dish of the night was Scheehser's roasted tomato tart with Rolling Stone fromage blanc and fig confit. The dish actually featured tomatoes done different ways, with the roasted ones giving the tart spectacular depth of flavor. As always, Sheehser's robust and rustic preparations made me think about food in new ways.... (more)

Do-gooder burrito-makers Chipotle Mexican Grill have been holding Farmer Appreciation Days for three years now. On the day in question, Chipotle feeds farmers and market volunteers free, piping-hot burritos as a way of saying thanks for the effort.

But knowing you have to bring enough to share, they're also giving the first 100 market customers canvas shopping bags and "burrito bucks" (which will get you a free entrée at Chipotle).

This Saturday, October 16, they're celebrating Farmer Appreciation Day at the U-District Farmers Market. Starting at noon, the first 100 people to visit their green tent (SE entrance, across the street from Jack in the Box) get the bags and bucks.

But wait, there's more!... (more)

I didn't have the same amount of time to spend as I did in the Yakima Valley, but after an overnight at Cave B Inn at SageCliffe, a drive through the Wenatchee Valley en route to my final stop of Leavenworth gave me a few hours of agri-tourism pleasure. As it should. Wenatchee Valley takes pride in getting 300 days of sunshine, which provides a chance to produce great crops and inspiration for a great number of artisan makers.

I wanted to say a quick hello to the friendly folks at Tiny’s Organic, visiting them on their own turf after all the times I've seen them at my local farmers markets. You can do the same by making an appointment. The family-owned, friendly farm is home to lots of stone fruits (peaches, plums, nectarines, and cherries), vegetables, and, of course, apples. (I also saw some baby turkeys that will make some people very happy on Thanksgiving.)

Apples are all over Wenatchee valley, and the father and son team of Peter and Lars Ringsrud put their orchard apples to good use at Snowdrift Cider...(more)

When I heard that Jacob Wiegner, the former sous chef at Olivar, had opened a place called Blackboard Bistro in West Seattle, I had a hunch it would be good. And a desire to quickly head over for lunch.

Yes, the menu is written up on blackboards. On those blackboards, I liked the humor with which the required health department warning is delivered: “Raw or undercooked food may make you sick. Or even kill you. But so could crossing the street.” What I really liked, though, was the chance to do a tasting menu, sort of like an American omakase. You name your price, and Wiegner sends out dishes of his choosing. It’s a great value and a chance for variety; $30 buys you a feast of small plates. Figure on $5 per plate, with one plate likely to be something not found on the menu.

Note that the menu is seasonal and always subject to change. Some of the dishes I sampled recently are no longer available.

But given the consistency of the quality, that’s okay, as you’ll find new favorites. I liked everything I tasted, appreciating some bold flavors and some tastes and techniques from around the world. My only minor gripe is that I felt a bit bloated afterward; given the richness of the dishes, I think Wiegner can back off the fat just a little. (I’ve recommended Blackboard Bistro to others, who raved about their meals but had this same issue.)... (more)

The SageCliffe website says it best: Where the Columbia River carves through the sunny center of Washington State, there is a destination. A place where you can experience all that the land has to offer. A place where you can share a glass of wine with the winemaker, savor seasonal, regional foods, be moved by the dramatic view...

Dreamy enough?

Those words capture my first experience at SageCliffe resort exquisitely. My brief stay was like taking the best parts (potential and realized) of my three days in the Yakima Valley and rolling them into one perfect day, technically in Quincy. (You know the place: it's next to the Gorge Amphitheatre, and typically sold out--or bought out by the band--when there's a concert happening.)

Upon approach to SageCliffe, I’m awestruck by the Columbia River Gorge, and then once on the grounds, the site of the vineyards makes me realize I’m in for a treat. Or many treats, starting with a chance to chat with Freddy Arrendondo, a former chef who brings his culinary skills into play as the winemaker for the Cave B Inn Estate Winery. Arrendondo, who is passionate about blending wines and food pairing, is fond of saying, "Wine is a food."

We sit in the cellar (once a unique place to hear live music--and maybe again in the future) tasting and an incredible number of wines and bantering about them. While I’m struck by talk of the return of the rosés, which Arrendondo says pair well with the smokiness and sweetness of grilled food, my favorite is the 2006 Merlot--so much so that in an unusual twist, that wine will dictate my dinner choice, and not vice-versa.... (more)

Now University of Washington students can snork down all the street food they want without leaving campus, during the Husky Union Building (HUB) renovation. No hurry, y'all have until September 2012 to sample the goods at Red Square. The kids don't have to stand out in the rain and snow, of course--there are also "expansions at multiple locations such as By George, Eleven 01 at Terry/Lander, and 8 at McMahon."

We sent SunBreak street food correspondent Lucas Anderson out to provide photographic proof of the al fresco dining options, and he has delivered. You can read all about UW's street food here, but here's Lucas's thumbnail guide if you're pressed for time:

• Hot dog place: Hot Dawgs - $4 hot dogs, with specialty relishes. Vegan sausage too!
• Burger place: Red Brick BBQ - $7 'sammichez' with $2 sides (slaw, beans, and potato salad). No vegetarian option.
• Taco place: Siganos - $2 tacos, $6 taco plate (tacos with beans and rice). Vegan/vegetarian option. I tried a couple of vegan tacos, and it was a pretty good snack for only four bucks. Better than the oily Thai food or the same old pizza they used to have in the HUB. ...

After Ivar's sent some samples of tartar sauce and cocktail sauce, my partner and I decided to speed over to the seafood section to prepare food for sauce tasting.

First up was fish, sans chips. Fresh, wild-caught cod deep-fried with a panko coating would be the perfect way to test the tartar sauce. My partner dove in as I readied a lemon squeeze, and she quickly screamed out a warning: "No lemon, no lemon."

Turns out this was a new Zesty Lemon Tartar Sauce, already packed with enough citrus punch. More disconcerting, though, is that it was missing enough of the cucumbers, capers, or other relish-like elements that I crave in adding texture to tartar sauce. Plus, it lacked bite that horseradish would provide. This tasted more like a lemony mayonnaise.

King crab would be a simple way to sample the cocktail sauce, which I soon realized was the new Spicy Ginger Lime Cocktail Sauce. The ginger was prominent and interesting, though not necessary for me. Lime makes sense, and luckily was less prominent than the lemon was in the tartar sauce. As for spicy, that simply wasn't happening.... (more)

The Travel Channel's Man v. Food just recently re-aired the episode in which they dropped into town to drool over Red Mill's burgers and onion rings and try the 12-egg omelet at Beth's Cafe. Host Adam Richman learned that the Red Mill makes 45 pounds of bacon per day, and tucked into the Crab Pot's Alaskan Seafeast (three kinds of crab!).

In previous culinary Escapes from Seattle, you've seen what happens when a food-loving indoor extremist goes to Whistler, and just last week, for the start of a new trip report, you learned how the Portland food scene differs from Seattle's. That trip next took me from food-rich Portland to the wine-rich Yakima Valley. Would I go hungry, and be forced to live on wine (and cherries) alone?

Perhaps the most prominent restaurants in Yakima are Tony’s Steakhouse and Gasperetti's Italian restaurant. I checked them both out, and found them to be ordinary places that could be in Anytown, USA. Tony's featured big plates with big portions and big protein boosts for lunch, such as an American Kobe (does that really mean anything?) prime rib salad.

Meanwhile, Gasperetti's was a tomato-sauce type of Italian restaurant where I sampled "John’s Combination Plate," with spaghettini, ravioli, Italian sausage and meatball, chicken cacciatora and chicken giblets. Points to Gasperetti's for offering some seasonal asparagus dishes, though points deducted for a "G-Spot" lounge that wasn't all that stimulating.

If it's asparagus you want, and you're hitting it in the right season (May until perhaps the last week of June, when I got there), check out Los Hernandez in Union Gap. They sell tamales, handmade fresh daily; the friendly shopkeeper told me that people trek from Bellingham to Boise to buy them by the dozen, usually frozen. I got there late afternoon my first full day in Yakima only to be told that the asparagus tamales were sold out, so I made it a point to go again early the next day to be sure to sample them. (They also have chicken and the more traditional pork varieties.)

The wait was well worth it. The tamales come out steaming hot and packed full of asparagus flavor, making Los Hernandez a unique food find. Los Hernandez also offers own fresh-made salsa, homemade masa (they cook and grind their own corn to make a more preferred coarser texture) and hojas (corn husks) in bags of 120.... (more)

It's been a hectic week, so let's talk about tea this afternoon. "Tea," I have been informed, "is restful in a lot of ways that coffee is not."

Earlier this week I was invited down to the Perennial Tea Room in Post Alley, for a little presentation about what to expect at the 2010 Northwest Tea Festival, on October 2 and 3 at Seattle Center (free, but a $5 suggested donation nets you a commemorative ceramic tasting cup that's yours to treasure).

Personally, I would expect hobbits. Dyed-in-the-wool tea drinkers always impress me in that way. But as a subculture (here in the Northwest, coffee is the dominant culture), their gathering for a festival apparently attracts other tea-friendly subcultures.

One year, laughed Perennial Tea Room's Julie Rosanoff, it was a Lolita-themed group. This year, they're expecting some cosplayers of the Otaku variety. And some herbal teas, some of which technically are more an "infusion." But time marches on. Last year brought 1,500 tea pilgrims; for 2010 they hope to see 2,000.

Previous festivals have been strictly tea-centric, but with the Essential Baking Co. as a festival sponsor, look for a variety of tea cakes: blueberry-orange, lemon-raspberry, and carrot-pineapple, all made with organic ingredients. I tried two slices of each, and in conclusion feel that the best option is two slices of each. You'll also find sandwiches, soups, and tarts.... (more)

The utilitarian Haas avocado is frequently on sale in these parts, and while I often simply cut slices into a salad or mash one to make guacamole, Mark Bittman's recipe for "Fast Avocado Soup" recently caught my eye.

This is simple soup. Take a few avocados, combine with an almost an equal number of cups of milk, then blend with some salt and cayenne. Chill (yourself, and the soup) for a few hours, then add some citrus to taste. (I didn't care for orange juice, but lemon or lime is fine.) Per the recipe's suggestion, I can see adding chopped cherry tomatoes and/or thinly sliced green onions, but I went the full upgrade by tossing in some cooked crabmeat with a lemon squeeze.

Good payback for your quick investment. I love the color and the creamy texture. But the soup reminded me of two cold concoctions that I like even better: avocado ice cream (from David Lebowitz's The Perfect Scoop) and avocado bubble tea with chocolate. Still, soup is more of a meal, isn't it?