As skeptical as I was about going on a food-related trip to Whistler, I was even more skeptical about making a similar trip to Vancouver Island. I’d been to both places about fifteen years ago, but I figured that Whistler had probably evolved more. The Olympics were there, foreigners hung out there on an ongoing basis, and you could drive there from Vancouver. It’s part of Canada, whereas Victoria is, what, part of England? I always told inquirers that it’s a place you only need to see once. Too prim-and-proper. See the Gardens, enjoy the buskers, maybe have tea…but bring some cartons of Chinese food from Vancouver if you want something good to eat.
And then, recently, I got gifted a bottle of balsamic vinegar from Venturi-Shultze, and told that Vancouver Island is a bounty of good food. One sip of the vinegar, and I was already making plans to give Victoria and environs another chance.
And am I glad I did!It’s an easy trip from Seattle. My partner and I planned on the Victoria Clipper outbound and then a return via a Kenmore Air seaplane in order to experience the trip both ways. Three hours on the boat gave me time to review our itinerary, as the eating would begin almost immediately upon arrival. It was a majestic entry into the harbor, and then just a quick (five-minutes or so) walk to the Inn at Laurel Point, our home-away-from-home in Victoria....
Coldstream Hills, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Photo by Matt Turner ©Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation
You might not associate pinot noir with Australia, but that won't be for long, if Aussie winemakers have anything to say about it. During the month of June, they're pushing wine drinkers in Los Angeles and Seattle to give up Oregon pinots and try some from Victoria, a state in Southeastern Australia with a cooler climate, good for the persnickety grape. And yes, even though this is white- and rosé-drinking season, a light and supple pinot noir also goes well with most summer meals. I spoke with Mark Davidson, a longtime sommelier and market development manager with Wine Australia about drinking Australian wine and this month's pinot event. Details on restaurants and retailers serving Victorian pinots after the interview.
What are the common perceptions (or misperceptions) of Australian pinots?
Most Americans, if they are aware of Australian pinot noir, they aren't that familiar with it. Without a doubt, New Zealand pinots are better known in the marketplace. (I can't speak about New Zealand, because we hate them—that's just a joke, actually.) When people think of Australia, they think of other things with wine—most likely shiraz is the first thing that comes to mind. I think the idea of Australian pinot noir is a great way to shift people's perception, which is kinda what we're trying to do right now, just to get people to think and understand that there's more to Australian wine than the cheap "sunshine in a bottle" or the steroidal shiraz that they've been accustomed to in the last couple years.
It's almost as if Australia's name was kinda ruined for a while, in terms of wine, because of Yellowtail and the subsequent race to the bottom for the cheapest possible wine.
Yeah, no question, everything goes through ebbs and flows, but in fairness, the kind of wines that got Australia to the dance, if you like, on the North American stage are those fun, varietally correct and clean, affordable wine--that's what got people excited. Then there was a little state where there were some importers bringing in the types of wine that were big and bold and high in alcohol. Those wines certainly exist, but they're not really that traditional in Australia. That got people excited for a short period of time, and then they got bored with those wines.
So then Australia was slotted as a two-trick pony: simple and fruity wines that were affordable, or these monstrous wines that were really big and over-the-top, and that's really not the full picture. While pinot noir is a relatively new thing to Australia, there's all kinds of styles and cool climate grapes that are not new at all and have been made for decades in Australia, but nobody knows about them. People like to compare [Australian pinots] to Oregon pinots. Obviously, the movie Sideways did a fantastic job in many ways of getting people in North America excited about wines other than cabernet....
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